Wine Out West

Greater Auckland is home to more than 110 vineyards. Henderson Valley is the country's oldest grape-growing area, dating to the arrival of Croatian and other Northern Hemisphere immigrants in the early 1900s. Today, the western suburbs and areas north to Kumeu are a major grape-growing region. Cabernet sauvignon is the most commonly planted grape; merlot and pinot noir are also important. Chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are the main white varieties. Most West Auckland wineries also draw fruit from other regions, mostly Gisborne, Marlborough, and Hawke's Bay. The Henderson and Kumeu areas are the most accessible for a day's outing. They're about 30 minutes from Central City. Waiheke Island is about 30 to 40 minutes away by ferry; it's by far the prettiest region and worth the time.

You'll find a good cluster of wineries along Lincoln and Henderson Valley roads, and nestled in the surrounding hills. The small townships of Kumeu, Huapai, and Waimauku also have good selections. For further details on the area, pick up the free brochure Winemakers of West Auckland from the visitor center. Following are the notables.

Babich Wines, 10 Babich Rd., Henderson (tel. 09/833-7859; www.babichwines.co.nz), is only 20 minutes from Central City and is open for tastings Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. One of the most picturesque wineries, it has a pleasant picnic area near its shop. It often has vintages going back to 1990. Soljans Estate, 366 St. Hwy. 16, Kumeu (tel. 09/412-5858; www.soljans.co.nz), produces internationally competitive wines. It has cellar sales and tastings and a cafe and winery complex. Daily winery tours (11:30am-2:30pm) followed by a tasting cost NZ$12 per person. The winery is open daily 9am to 5:30pm; the cafe, Monday through Friday 10am to 4pm, weekends 9am to 4pm. Nobilo Wine Group, 45 Station Rd., Huapai (tel. 09/412-6666; www.nobilowinegroup.com), is the country's second-largest winemaker. Tours cost NZ$12 per person and begin at set times Saturday through Monday. The winery is open daily from 10am to 5pm. Matua Valley Wines, Waikoukou Road, Waimauku (tel. 09/411-8301; www.matua.co.nz), produced the first New Zealand sauvignon blanc over 25 years ago. The winery is open Monday through Saturday, 10am to 5pm, and Sunday from 11am to 4:30pm. The Hunting Lodge, an excellent fine-dining restaurant on-site, is run separately. There is also a lovely picnic area.

If you're short on time, call at NZ Winemakers Centre, Victoria and Elliot streets (tel. 09/379-5858; www.nzwc.co.nz), where you'll find an extensive range of varietals from most New Zealand regions. It offers tax-free wine sales, wine tastings, worldwide home delivery, and wine-tour information. In summer it's open Monday through Saturday 9am to 9pm, Sunday 11am to 7pm; in winter Monday through Saturday 9am to 8pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm.