Getting There

By Plane

Tegel is the city's busiest airport, serving most flights from the West. Historic Tempelhof (made famous as the city's lifeline during the Berlin Airlift) has declined in importance, although it's still used for flights from Basel, Brussels, Copenhagen, Prague, and many cities within Germany. Schönefeld, the airport in the eastern sector, is used primarily by Russian and eastern European airlines. Private bus shuttles among the three airports operate constantly, so you can make connecting flights at a different airport. For information on any of the three airports, call tel. 01805/000186, or visit www.berlin-airport.de.

Lufthansa (tel. 800/399-3880; www.lufthansa-usa.com) routs transatlantic passengers from several North American cities through the airline's hubs at Frankfurt and Munich.

Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) has flights to Berlin-Tegel in the evening from New York's JFK airport. However, daily flights, depending on the season or on business, are not always a sure thing, so you'll need to check with a travel agent or the airline itself.

The best and most convenient service into Berlin is available aboard British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297; www.ba.com), which efficiently funnels dozens of daily flights from North America to Germany, including five a day into Berlin-Tegel, through its vast terminals at London-Heathrow. Connections to Berlin are available from at least 40 gateways in the U.S. and Canada, more than those offered by any other airline. Frequent transatlantic price wars keep fares to Berlin aboard BA lower than you may have thought, especially in off season. Stopovers in London can be arranged at minimal cost, and deeply discounted hotel packages are available in either Berlin or London, at rates that are significantly less than what you'd have paid if you'd arranged them yourself. And if you opt for passage in Business Class (BA calls it Club Class), you'll ride on the most comfortable, and one of the largest, airline seats in the industry, in a configuration that can be transformed into something approaching a bed.

Berlin-Tegel Airport (tel. 01805/000186; www.berlin-airport.de/EN) is 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. Public transportation by bus, taxi, or U-Bahn is convenient to all points in the city. BVG bus nos. X9 and 109 run every 10 to 15 minutes from the airport to Bahnhof Zoo in Berlin's center, departing from outside the arrival hall; a one-way fare is 4€ ($5.20). A taxi (tel. 030/41013187) to the city center costs about 24€ ($31) and takes 25 to 40 minutes. No porters are available for luggage handling, but pushcarts are free. The Jetexpressbus TXL, operated by Berlin's public transport provider, BVG, leaves the airport for Friedrichstrasse and Unter den Linden (trip time: 20-25 min.), at a cost of 3€ ($3.90). The first departure from Alexanderplatz urban rail (S-Bahn) and metro (U-Bahn) station is at 4:42am (Sat and Sun at 5:12am). The last bus leaves Tegel Airport for the city center daily at 11:07pm. Otherwise, buses run back and forth at 10-minute intervals from 6am to 7pm Monday to Friday and then at 20-minute intervals 7 to 11pm. On Saturday, they run every 20 minutes from 6am to 11pm; on Sunday, they run at 20-minute intervals from 6am to 10am, 10-minute intervals 10am to 7pm, and then 20-minute intervals again from 7 to 11pm.

The main terminal has a visitor information counter where you can get a free map of the city. The counter is open daily 5am to 10pm. Facilities at the terminal include money-exchange centers, luggage-storage facilities (and locker rentals), a police station, auto-rental kiosks, dining facilities, and a first-aid center. Shops sell gifts, film, and travel paraphernalia.

Berlin-Schönefeld Airport (tel. 01805/000186; www.berlin-airport.de/EN), once the main airport for East Berlin, now receives many flights from Asia, as well as Russia and other European countries. It lies in Brandenburg, 19km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. The city center is a 55-minute ride on the S-Bahn. You can also take bus no. 171 from the airport to Rudow, where you transfer to the U-Bahn. Either means of transport costs 3€ ($3.90).

Berlin-Tempelhof Airport (tel. 01805/000186; www.berlin-airport.de/EN) is the city's oldest airport, 6km (3 3/4 miles) southeast of the city center. Tempelhof now receives several flights a day from German and European cities. Take the U-Bahn or bus no. 119. All bus trips from Tempelhof into the city center cost 3€ ($3.90).

By Train

As Berlin strengthens its role as Germany's capital, increasing numbers of trains are speeding their way into town. All points of the country, especially Frankfurt, Munich, and Bonn, maintain excellent rail connections, with high-tech, high-speed improvements being made to the country's railway system virtually all the time. One recent major improvement is that Berlin and the great port of Hamburg are now 15 minutes closer, thanks to high-speed (250kmph/155 mph) InterCity Express service (the trip is now 2 hr. 8 min.). Since reunification, Berlin has improved the facilities of railway stations in both the western zone (Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten) and eastern zone (Berlin Ostbahnhof), installing improved S-Bahn links to interconnect them. The station you'll use depends on the destination or origin of your train, or the location of your hotel within the city. Some trains, but not all, make arrivals and departures from both stations. A third station, Berlin Lichtenberg, within the city's eastern half, is used for trains pulling in from small towns. For information about any railway station, call tel. 01805/996633. A new megastation, Lehrter Bahnhof, recently opened in Berlin-Mitte, within a 5-minute walk of the Reichstag. It incorporates the lines that lead to the three other railway stations mentioned above, eliminating the need for cross-town commutes among the city's railway stations.

By Bus (Coach)

Regularly scheduled buses operate from 250 German and continental cities, including Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Munich. Long-distance bus companies servicing Berlin include Haru-Reisen (tel. 030/3519520) and Bayern Express & P. Kühn (tel. 030/860960 or 030/86096240).

Arrivals and departures are at the ZOB Omnibusbahnhof am Funkturm, Masurenalle, Charlottenburg. Taxis and bus connections are available at the station and at the U-Bahn, at the nearby Kaiserdamm station.

By Car

From Frankfurt, take the E451 north until it connects with the E40 going northeast. Follow this autobahn past Jena and then head north on the E51 into Berlin. From Nürnberg, also take the E51 into Berlin. From Dresden, take the E55 north to Berlin. Expect heavy traffic on the autobahns on weekends and sunny days when everybody is out touring.