Isolated and craggy Cape Breton Island -- Nova Scotia's northernmost land mass -- should be high on the list of don't-miss destinations for travelers, especially those with an adventurous bent. The island's chief draw is Cape Breton Highlands National Park, far north on the island's western lobe. But there's also the historic fort at Louisbourg and scenic Bras d'Or Lake, the inland saltwater lake that nearly cleaves the island in two. Above all, there are the picturesque drives. It's hard to find a road that's not a scenic route in Cape Breton. By turns the vistas are wild and dramatic, then settled and pastoral.
When traveling on the island, be alert to the cultural richness. Just as southern Nova Scotia was largely settled by English Loyalists fleeing the United States after they lost the War of Independence, Cape Breton was principally settled by Highland Scots whose families came out on the wrong side of rebellions against the Crown. You can still see that heritage in the accents of elders in some of the more remote villages, and in the great popularity of Scottish-style folk music.
You'll often hear references to the Cabot Trail when on the island. This is the official designation for the 300km (185-mile) roadway around the northwest part of the island, which encompasses the national park. It's named after John Cabot, who many believe first set foot on North American soil near Cape North. (However, many disagree, especially in Newfoundland.)
If you're in a hurry, you might do well to base yourself in Baddeck, which is centrally located, offers the best accommodations and restaurants, and is well positioned for day excursions to the island's two best attractions: the national park and the reconstructed historic settlement of Louisbourg. The southeastern portion of the island -- near Isle Madame and Port Hawkesbury -- can be picturesque in parts, but it isn't nearly as inviting as the rest of the island. I encourage travelers to focus more on the west and central sections.
