Planning a Trip

Getting There

Reaching Dubrovnik by any means except air can be inconvenient and expensive. Even driving there from elsewhere in Croatia is challenging because of the city's position between the mountains and sea and the lack of modern roads in the area. Ferry routes to Dubrovnik often include multiple stops at various islands, and train service is nonexistent. Build in extra travel time when you plan a visit to Dubrovnik.

Arriving by Plane -- Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr) operates daily flights to and from Zagreb and select European cities. Planes land at Dubrovnik International Airport (Zracna Luka), located at Cilipi, 18km (11miles) from the city center (www.airport-dubrovnik.hr).

Croatia Airlines operates shuttle buses to and from Dubrovnik Airport, and they are coordinated with incoming flights, even late ones. Buses supposedly leave the main terminal in Dubrovnik near Gruz Port 90 minutes before each Croatia Airlines flight, but there is no posted schedule. You don't have to be a Croatia Airlines passenger to ride, however. The fare is 35kn one-way; the trip takes about 25 minutes.

There is also taxi service to and from the airport. Taxi cost is metered at 25kn plus 8kn per kilometer, 2kn for each piece of luggage, and 80kn per hour for waiting. Twenty-four kilometers (15 miles) from the airport to Dubrovnik costs about 250kn, and it could be more if you don't settle on the price and terms before you get in the cab. The taxi company's website (www.taxiservicedubrovnik.com) tells you not to pay if the driver doesn't turn on the meter, but that could get ugly.

Nature's Waiting Room -- Make good use of flight delays at Dubrovnik Airport and go caving while you wait. You can wander with wonder around showy stalactites and stalagmites that still are growing in Durovic Cave 25m (82 ft.) under one of the airport's runways. In less than half an hour you'll get a guided tour in English, Russian, or Croatian for a mere 50kn per person (35kn each for groups of 12 or more). Even if you aren't catching a flight, the cave is a nice respite from Dubrovnik's heat, with constant temperatures of 60°F (16°C). The cave opened in July 2009 after 7 years of excavation and a 2.2-million-kuna investment. Bronze and Iron Age artifacts found there confirm that prehistoric civilizations settled in the area and used the cave. During the 1991 Homeland War, Dubrovnik's citizens used the cave's entrance as a shelter. Plans are in the works for a visitor center and multimedia room. Call tel. 020/773-331 for reservations or e-mail the Konavle Museum at skycellar@dubrovnikpr.com for more information.

By Bus -- Daily buses operate between the Dubrovnik ferry port at Gruz and Zagreb, Zadar, Split, Sibenik, Rijeka, Orebic, and Korcula in Croatia, as well as Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia and Medugorje in Hercegovina. The main Dubrovnik bus terminal is in a temporary location near Gruz but it is expected to be moved again (tel. 020/357-020).

By Ferry -- Jadrolinija operates ferries that connect Dubrovnik with the islands and cities up the coast, including the island of Hvar and the cities of Split and Zadar. Local ferries run to the Elafiti Islands and Mljet. Buy tickets and obtain schedule information at the Dubrovnik Jadrolinija office in Gruz (tel. 020/418-000) or at Jadroagent at Radica 32 (tel. 020/419-000).

By Car -- The A1 autocesta between Zagreb and Split opened in June 2005 and was extended another 27km (16 miles) to Omis in 2007, reducing travel time between the two cities to about 3 hours. In summer 2009 the highway had progressed to Ravca, shaving even more time off the trip, but the rest of the highway that continues to Dubrovnik 92km (57 miles) is still under construction as we go to print. If you choose the coastal route to Dubrovnik, you will have to take the much slower E-65. If you drive from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, even using the new highway, it will take approximately 7 hours, more during summer gridlock, so plan accordingly. Warning: Do not try to drive into Dubrovnik at night. Besides narrow lanes and tight turns on hilly roads leading into town, the city's streets can be confusing. There are few street signs in the city, and those are not lighted and impossible to see in the dark.

Visitor Information

You'll find the Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board office at Vukovarska 24 (tel. 020/324-999; www.visitdubrovnik.com). It is open from 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday, and closed Saturday and Sunday. The Dubrovnik Tourist Board office, Sv. Dominika 7 (tel. 020/323-887; www.tzdubrovnik.com), is open 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday and from 9am to 1pm Saturday. Closed Sunday. Private tourist offices abound in Dubrovnik. There is one very accessible office across the street from the Hilton Imperial on the road leading to the Pile Gate (tel. 020/427-591) as well as at several other locations in Old Town. The Pile Gate location is also an Internet center where you can check your e-mail or connect with home via Skype.

Another Tourist Information Center inside the walls at Placa 1, across from the Franciscan monastery in Old Town (tel. 020/323-350; fax 020/323-351), can help with maps, brochures, and information on local concerts, events, and some excursions. Private tourist agencies can be helpful, too -- the following represents a partial list. Atlas Travel Agency has several locations in Dubrovnik: at the Pile Gate, in Old Town, and at the harbor. Atlas operates many excursions out of Dubrovnik and can help you find private accommodations. Elite Travel at Vukovarska 17 (tel. 020/358-200) runs specialized tours such as the UNESCO World Heritage Croatia Tour, which visits the country's protected cultural and natural sites, a horseback tour of Konavle, and a canoe safari on the Trebezit River, among others. Generalturist can book sailboat and car rentals as well as excursions and accommodations (Obala Stjepana Radica 24; tel. 020/432-974; www.generalturist.com). Gulliver Travel offers a broad range of excursions to Dubrovnik's offshore islands and towns up and down the southern Adriatic coast (Obala Stjepana Radica 32; tel. 020/313-313; www.gulliver.hr). Huck Finn is Croatia's premier adventure travel source. Even though it is based in Zagreb, Huck Finn offers an extensive slate of active Dubrovnik excursions, including sea kayaking around Kolocep Island, bicycling across Sipan Island, rafting the Neretva River, and much more (Vukovarska 270, 10000 Zagreb; tel. 01/618-3333; www.huck-finn.hr). Metro Tours at Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 40A (tel. 020/437-320) offers excursions to various locations each day. You can choose Mostar in Bosnia on Monday for 290kn, Cavtat on Tuesday for 125kn, and Korcula and the Peljesac wine country on Friday for 320kn. Prices include transfers, guides, bus, and boat, depending on the destination.

If you have the resources, consider booking an English-speaking private guide who not only can plan a custom itinerary for you, but also can arrange transport, transfers, and admittance to otherwise inaccessible sites. Jelena Delic (tel. 91/531-8782; damale3@hotmail.com) is one of the best.

Getting Around

There are no trains or trams in Dubrovnik, but the Libertas city bus system is fairly efficient (www.libertasdubrovnik.hr). If you are staying within comfortable walking distance of Old Town, everything important is accessible on foot.

By Bus -- Buy one-way tickets from a news kiosk or at your hotel for 8kn and save 2kn over the on-board price; an unlimited full day ticket is 25kn. All buses stop at the Pile Gate and continue on to outlying hotels, the ferry port, and beyond. Schedules and route maps are available at the Tourist Information Center in Old Town across from the Franciscan Monastery.

By Taxi -- Taxi stands are at the airport, bus station, and at the Pile Gate. Taxis can be called locally tel. 020/424-343 (Pile Gate), tel. 020/423-164 (Ploce), tel. 020/418-112 (ferry port), tel. 020/357-044 (bus station), and tel. 020/435-715 (Lapad). Rides start with 25kn on the meter and go up 8kn per kilometer. If you agree to a meterless ride, negotiate a price beforehand to avoid rip-offs and unwanted excursions.

On Foot -- Negotiating the busy streets outside the walls can be confusing (and dangerous), especially at night. But once you are in the Old Town, you can devise your own walking tour using the suggestions in this book. You also can employ a private guide to accompany you on a walk, or you can book a guided Old Town walking tour through the tourist office or through a private tourist agency.

By Car -- Congestion and parking make driving in Dubrovnik stressful, and Old Town is pedestrian-only, but if you rent a car for excursions to nearby Peljesac or Ston, car rental companies at the airport include: Hertz (tel. 01/484-6777; www.hertz.hr), Budget (tel. 020/773-290; www.budget.hr), Thrifty (tel. 020/773-3588; www.thrifty.com), and MACK, a local company that proved to be economical and reliable (Frana Supila 3; tel. 020/423-747). Ask for Mr. Zec. Wherever you rent, be sure to reserve a car in advance.

By Bicycle -- No companies currently rent bikes in Dubrovnik.