Hotels

Dubrovnik is the most expensive city in Croatia, especially in summer when prices for everything from gelato to taxis can triple over the prices charged other times. Add to that a conspicuous lack of budget accommodations and the hunt for value becomes a crusade. Even moderately priced rooms are difficult to find unless you opt for private rooms in Lapad or Gruz. Try the tourist offices or look for signs in windows that say SOBE (room available). If you arrive at the ferry or bus terminal, you'll be greeted (or accosted) by men and women waving photos of lodging options -- mainly rooms in private homes. In general, the cheapest are from the seated old ladies asking you if you need a place to sleep. If you choose this option, be sure to inspect the room before you hand over any money. You never know what you'll get -- perhaps a dirt-cheap find in the center, or a tiny bed (sharing a bathroom with the owner) on the outskirts of town. All of these options take cash only. If you want to be sure of what you're getting, go to a tourist office, which has screened rentals and provides photos and amenity lists.

Viva Villa Agave -- When the Excelsior Hotel decided to renovate an adjacent Dalmatian stone house as a private villa, it spared no expense. Villa Agave's first guests arrived in spring 2009, and there has been a steady interest in the luxury property since. For 7,000€ per day (the villa sleeps three couples, so the expense can be shared), guests have access to a private chef, a BMW sedan and driver, yacht and boat charter, and a private hot tub set on one of Agave's five stone terraces with views of Old Town. It is large enough to double as a lap pool. This is a house that is both modern and historical with living room, fireplace, dining room, bathrooms to die for, private beach, massage and beauty services, private butler, Wi-Fi, and much more. Call tel. 020/353-291; fax 020353-295; www.alh.hr for reservations.

Coming Attraction -- From our table on the terrace of the Radisson BLU's Ginja restaurant, we could see the first stages of excavation preparing the land for construction of the Dubrovnik Regent Esplanade, a sister hotel to the legendary Regent Esplanade in Zagreb. Zagreb's Esplanade has been a temple of class and exquisite service since it served passengers from the Orient Express, and its new sibling promises to provide the same old-world accommodations experience in romantic Dubrovnik. Rezidor, parent to both the Esplanade and the Radisson BLU, anticipates opening the new hotel in 2011.

Down-Home Dubrovnik 

Tiny Zaton Mali is just 15 minutes north of Dubrovnik, but the serene waterfront village is galaxies away in temperament. It also is home to an exceptional inn run by a family that really knows how to put out the welcome mat.

The three Kukuljicas (Antun, Nena, and their son, Ivo) preside over an inn as deftly run as any luxury hotel. Guest rooms are spic and span, homey, and affordable. Meals are prepared using produce from the family's organic garden; wine is home produced from the family vineyards; and seafood comes from the front yard.

Little touches give Villa K guests added value: Airport transportation to and from is free; excursions to nearby islands, Medugorje, and Mostar are handled by Ivo's brother; guests are greeted with a meal no matter how late they arrive.

For the Kukuljicas, the Villa isn't just a business; it is also home to Antun and Nena, whose strong suit is hospitality.

Rooms in Villa K vary in size and amenities -- most have private bathrooms and others are multiple bedrooms with a detached bathtub on one floor suitable for a family; all are comfortable. Our favorite is either of the two balcony rooms. All rooms have air-conditioners and TV, and we even were able to pick up a free wireless network in ours.

Most people who come to Villa K stay for a week or two, but you can rent for a single night if there is availability. For more information call Ivo Kukuljica at tel. 020/891-622 (www.dubrovnikrooms.com). Flat charge is 20€ per person with breakfast; 30€ per person half board. Open all year; credit cards are not accepted.