What's New

There will always be an England, as the saying goes, but it won't always be the same. "As time goes by," here are some of the latest developments.

London

Accommodations -- The flagship of the Malaysia-based Guoman group, the restored Cumberland, Great Cumberland Place, W1 (tel. 0870/333-9280), is now the second-largest hotel in the U.K. Originally built in 1936, it's been given a modern, youthful look, with bright colors and a sense of minimalist hip by the same architect who created the plush digs of David Beckham and Posh Spice in Los Angeles.

The same Malaysian group has completely renovated and restored the old Charing Cross Hotel, Charing Cross Station, The Strand WC2 (tel. 0871/376-9012), directly above the fourth-largest railway station in London. The high-ceilinged Victorian architecture is still there, but the public rooms and bedrooms are sleekly contemporary.

Yet another landmark, The Royal Horseguards, 2 Whitehall Court, SW1 (tel. 0870/333-9122), dating from the 19th century, has also been restored by this Malaysian group, which seems to dominate the hot news in hotel development in economically pressed London. Rooms are luxuriously and beautifully maintained with traces of "imperial Britain" still evident in spite of the massive overhaul.

Dining -- In the heart of Mayfair, Chef Anthony Demetre took a former gentleman's club and turned it into an enclave of fine European cuisine called Wild Honey, 12 St. George St., WC1 (tel. 020/7758-9160). Local produce is fashioned into palate-tempting concoctions such as wild duck with Armagnac sauce. With the "Wild Honey" ice cream served for dessert, the actual honeycomb appears on your plate.

Bloomsbury used to be the gastronomic wasteland of London. Not anymore. Pied-à-Terre, 34 Charlotte St., W1 (tel. 020/7636-1178), is operated by Chef Osborn, who is inspired by the recipes of France, but uses the finest ingredients from field, stream, and air in England. The best example might be his roasted Devonshire loin of venison with a quince purée and walnuts. Every dish is backed up by an appropriate wine from either the Old World or the New World.

Also in Bloomsbury, Salt Yard, 54 Goodge St., W1 (tel. 020/7637-0657), calls itself a charcuterie bar and restaurant. This fashionable choice for dining specializes in Spanish tapas -- some of the best in London -- along with a selection of Italian-inspired dishes. Bar snacks are also served here.

Attractions -- The Gilbert Collection, one of the greatest collections of decorative arts in England, has been moved to the Victoria and Albert Museum on Cromwell Rd., SW7 (tel. 020/7942-2000). The collection of some 800 objects, including gold and silver, dates from the 15th century. Exhibits are strong on masterpieces of the great 18th-century silversmiths.

At long last, Saatchi Gallery has found a new home at the Duke of York's Headquarters, Kings Rd., SW3 (tel. 020/7811-3070), deep in the heart of Chelsea. British megacollector Charles Saatchi continues to display some of the most controversial art in the world. The new, forever controversial museum presents the works of unseen young artists or else established international artists whose work is rarely displayed in the U.K.

After a major restoration, the London Transport Museum, Covent Garden Piazza (tel. 020/7379-6344), has reopened. In its latest reincarnation, its exhibition space has increased by 25%. A collection of historic vehicles spanning 2 centuries is on display.

Bath

Gourmets are flocking to Casani's French Bistro-Restaurant, 4 Saville Row (tel. 01225/780055), to sample the offerings of a husband-and-wife team who turn out stylish dishes inspired by the recipes of Southern France, notably Provence. The restaurant is housed in a restored Georgian building on one of the prettiest lanes in Bath.

Bournemouth

The former landmark, Mansion House, has been converted into one of the finest hotels in the Greater Bournemouth area. Hotel du Vin lies on Thames Street, near The Quay in Poole (tel. 01202/785570), a satellite resort of Bournemouth. Its balconies open onto panoramic views, and many accommodations reflect a nautical theme. Its wine carte is perhaps the finest in town.

Brighton

In "London by the Sea," as Brighton is called, The Gingerman at Drakes, 44 Marine Parade (tel. 01273/696934), has moved to the forefront of restaurants here with its take on modern British cuisine. The finest of ingredients are shaped by skilled chefs into tempting plates to please the most serious foodie. Soothing neutral tones and soft lighting add to the ambience.

Cambridge

The prestigious Hotel du Vin chain has invaded Cambridge, with the opening of a plush hotel, Hotel du Vin and Bistro Cambridge, Trumpington St. (tel. 01223/227330). Millions of pounds were poured into the restoration of an older building, and special features of the hotel include private gardens and the chain's trademark bistro and champagne bar.

The Hilton chain has also moved into Cambridge, taking over an older hotel and converting it into Doubletree by Hilton, Granta Place, Mill Lane (tel. 01223/259988). Its location on the Cam River is one of the most desirable spots in this university city. An indoor pool and free access to a spa and health club make the hotel even more desirable.

Canterbury

Built in 1888, Yorke Lodge, 50 London Rd. (tel. 01227/451242), has been turned into one of the finest B&Bs in this cathedral city. Lying on the fringe of town, the large Victorian manse features individually decorated and rather luxurious bedrooms, along with a Conservatory and a sun terrace.

Kendal (Lake District)

On the fringe of Lake District National Park, Beech House, 40 Greenside (tel. 0845/6449468), is welcoming guests to its little boutiquelike guest rooms, each decorated differently. Prices are affordable, and the hearty country breakfast is one of the best in the area.

Liverpool

In a city forever linked to the Fab Four, Hard Day's Night Hotel, Central Buildings, North John St., City Centre (tel. 0151/236-1964), not only pays tribute to The Beatles, but houses you in supreme comfort imbued with 21st century chic. Beatles memorabilia dominates, and the ultimate in luxury would be to check into one of two suites dedicated to John Lennon or Paul McCartney.

Oxford

The best known restaurateur in Oxfordshire, Raymond Blanc, has taken a former piano shop and converted it into Brasserie Blanc, 71-72 Walton St. (tel. 01865/510999), serving a modern British and French cuisine that uses fresh ingredients and savory recipes. From Aberdeenshire beef to their Lock Fyne mussels, this is a first-rate eatery.

Salisbury

This cathedral city in the West Country still doesn't equal Bath in first-class restaurants, but it's forging ahead with the opening of first-rate restaurants, including Chapter 69, in The King Arms Hotel, 9-13 St. John St. (tel. 01722/340000), near the Salisbury Cathedral. Its market-fresh British cuisine changes with the season, including venison in autumn.

The Gastrobistro at the Pheasant Inn, 19 Salt Lane (tel. 01722/41426), has become Salisbury's finest restaurant, serving a Mediterranean and continental cuisine. The preparation is mainly Gallic inspired, and meals in summer are served on a terrace. A wide range of tastes is catered to here.

Stratford-Upon-Avon

After a major renovation, the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Waterside (tel. 01789/403444), is set to reopen in 2010, with its regular season running from April to November. You can also dine at the newly restored theater at the RSC Courtyard Theatre Café Bar (tel. 01789/412654), serving a first-class English and continental cuisine. Pre-theater dinners are available, but you should make a reservation.

Tetbury (The Cotswolds)

In the town where Prince Charles lives, The Trouble House, Cirencester Road (tel. 01666/502206), serves one of the finest cuisines in the Cotswolds. A husband-and-wife team beat out most competitors in their modern British cuisine that features the finest of produce from throughout the U.K. Dishes range from organic salmon from the remote Shetland Islands to Cornish lobster.

York

In this cathedral city of northeast England, Marmadukes, St. Peter's Grove (tel. 0845/4609010), is one of the finest boutique hotels in the area, created from a gentlemen's residence in the 1890s. Antiques and oil paintings add grace notes from yesterday, but everything else is completely modernized.