La Perle du Lac

Situated in a single-story pavilion owned by the city, this is the only restaurant in Geneva that's not separated from the waters of the lake by a stream of traffic. It's set beneath the venerable trees of Mon-Repos Park, not far from the United Nations complex. Although the candlelit interior is lovely, you may want to reserve a table on the outdoor terrace in warm weather. A talented French chef prepares a marvelous mousseline of sweetbreads and mushrooms. Other specialties, each delectable, include line-caught grilled sea wolf with fresh fennel and olive oil, and braised strips of fera (freshwater lake fish) flavored with saffron. Ravioli appears in an unusual version stuffed with fresh watercress. The real allure here involves competent but not necessarily inspired cuisine, and a location and lakeside setting that more than compensates.

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