Introduction to Krakow

Spared serious damage from World War II, the historic city of Kraków is arguably Poland's gem, its streets teeming with architecture from the ages. Kraków was the royal seat of the Polish kingdom for more than five centuries and has long been a hotbed of freethinking intellectuals -- maverick astronomer Copernicus studied here, while rebel cleric Pope John Paul served as the city's archbishop before his appointment as pontiff. Kraków slips into its bohemian disguise at night, with one of Europe's most energetic bar and club scenes.

Things to Do

Work your way through Kraków's thousand-year history. Start at Rynek Glówny, the grand medieval square in the Old Town. The baroque grandeur of the Wawel Castle is testament to Kraków's (and Poland's) glory days in the 16th to 18th centuries. Until World War II, Kraków was known as a haven for Jews, who thrived in the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz before being deported to the Nazi death camps. Spend a haunting and deeply moving day in Auschwitz and Birkenau.

Shopping

Kraków is a rummage sale of antiques and curios. The better stores are concentrated in the Old Town, especially on ul. Sw. Jana. For classic Polish souvenirs, including handicrafts, woodcarving, and amber, first try the stalls at the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) in the middle of the Rynek Glówny -- you'll need to pick through a lot of touristy bric-a-brac, but keep digging; you'll find beautifully carved wood and amber chess sets, as well as locally produced cloth, lace, and leather goods.

Nightlife and Entertainment

"Party amid the past" in Kraków's lively bar and club scene. The city's nocturnal epicenter is Kazimierz, where a mixed crowd of students, young professionals, artists, and hipsters gathers in some of central Europe's best clubs. Try Alchemia, one of the pioneers of the neighborhood's revival in the 1990s -- the vintage furniture, faded photos, and frayed carpets set a design tone for the ages.

Restaurants and Dining

Discover a world of two cuisines in one neighborhood: Kazimierz. For a plate of Polish fare, head to Pierozki U Vincenta, where you can order the classic pastry in just about any and every imaginable permutation: stuffed with minced meat, spicy lentils, fried onions, bacon or sheep's cheese. The Jewish-themed Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu is a cozy, homespun place; try the succulent roast duck served with cherries.