Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- John Paul II International Airport (tel. 012/295-58-00; www.lotnisko-balice.pl) is located in the suburb of Balice, about 10km (6 1/4 miles) from town. The airport has two terminals, a larger international terminal and a smaller domestic terminal at the back to handle flights within Poland. Most of the services, including rental-car outlets, ATMs, and restaurants, are located at the international terminal. The best way to get into town from the airport is to take Polish Railways' "Balice Express," regular train service to and from Kraków's main train station (regular departures on the half-hour). The price is 6zl ($2.60/£1.60) each way. To reach the small station from where the express train departs, you need to take a blue shuttle bus that departs from outside both terminals. You can also take a taxi into town, but be sure to use only clearly marked cabs and refuse any offers of a ride you might get from individuals inside the terminal or just outside the door. These are likely to be scams. Expect to pay about 65zl ($28/£17) to destinations in the center.

By Train -- Kraków's main train station, the Dworzec Glówny, Pl. Kolejowy 1 (tel. 012/393-11-11; www.pkp.krakow.pl), is about 20 minutes' walk from the center of the city. Kraków is well served by rail and departures for Warsaw and other major cities are frequent. The rail distance from Warsaw is about 3 hours. Note that travel to popular international destinations like Prague sometimes require a change of trains in Katowice.

By Bus -- Kraków's central bus station, ul. Bosacka (tel. 012/393-52-52), is located just behind the main train station and is an easy walk or relatively cheap taxi ride to the center of town. Nearly all buses, international and domestic, including Polski Express, use this station. This is also where buses to Zakopane and Oswiecim (Auschwitz) depart from. The station has two levels, so make sure you know which level your bus is using. There's a bank of ticket windows, but oftentimes you'll simply buy your ticket from the bus driver.

By Car -- Kraków lies on the main east-west highway, the A4, running through southern Poland. It's nearly a straight 3- to 4-hour shot on mostly four-lane highway from the German border, through the cities of Wroclaw and Katowice. You'll have to pay a toll from Katowice, but for the speed and convenience (compared to other roads in Poland) it's a bargain. From other directions, including coming in from Warsaw to the north, you'll have to contend with much smaller roads and longer drive times. Once in Kraków, stow the car since it's unlikely to help you navigate the city's small, tram-clogged streets.

City Layout

Kraków's Old Town is relatively compact and comprised of the main square (Rynek Glówny) and the streets that radiate from it in all directions (bordered by what remains of the medieval town walls and the circular park, the Planty). Most of the main tourist sites are situated within a 10- or 15-minute walk from the square.

The Wawel castle district comprises a second major tourist destination and is a 15-minute walk south of the main square, following Grodzka Street.

The former Jewish ghetto of Kazimierz lies about a 25-minute walk south of the main square beyond the castle. To save time, it's possible to take a taxi from the Old Town to Kazimierz. Expect to pay about 15zl ($6.50/£4.05). A number of trams also make the run between the two.

Getting Around

On Foot -- Much of Kraków is closed to traffic, so walking is often the only option. Distances are manageable.

By Tram -- Kraków is well served by a comprehensive tram network, and this is a quick and easy way to reach more far-flung destinations. Try to avoid tram travel at rush hour unless you enjoy getting pressed up against the doors like you're in the Tokyo subway. A ticket costs 2.50zl ($1.10/65p) and can be bought at newspaper kiosks around town. Validate your ticket on entering the tram and hold onto it until the end of the ride.

By Bus -- Like trams, buses ply Kraków's streets every day from early morning until after 11pm or so and are a vital part of the city's transit network. You probably won't need to use the buses unless your hotel is well outside the city center. A ticket costs 2.50zl ($1.10/65p) and can be bought at newspaper kiosks around town. Validate your ticket on entering the bus and hold onto it until the end of the ride.

By Taxi -- Taxis are relatively cheap and a dependable means of getting around. You can hail taxis directly on the street or at taxi stands around town. The fare for a typical hop, such as from the Old Town to Kazimierz, will average about 15zl ($6.50/£4.05).

By Bike -- Biking is becoming increasingly popular, and there are now bike lanes scattered around town, including a nice run along the Vistula river and through the park, the Planty, that rings the main square. That said, biking is a better bet for an hour or two of sightseeing rather than as a practical means for getting around. "Cruising Kraków" bike tours, ul. Basztowa 17 (tel. 0514/556-017), offers fun and instructional 2-hour bike tours in season in the afternoons and evenings; the company also rents bikes and conducts longer trips in summer.

Visitor Information

The city of Kraków maintains an extensive and helpful network of tourist information offices around town in all of the tourist hot spots, including an office in the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. Here you'll find some excellent brochures, including one called the Tourist Information Compendium and another Two Days in Kraków. They also have excellent free maps, a wealth of suggestions, and can help find and book hotel rooms. Note that the Kazimierz office is (inexplicably) closed on weekends. The main offices are located at the following addresses:

Town Hall Tower (Main Sq.) (tel. 012/433-73-10; daily 9am-7pm)

Sw. Jana 2 (Old Town) (tel. 012/421-77-87; Mon-Sat 10am-6pm)

John Paul II International Airport/Balice (tel. 012/285-53-41; daily 10am-6pm)

Szpitalna 25 (Old Town) (tel. 012/432-01-10; Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-5pm)

Józefa 7 (Kazimierz) (tel. 012/422-04-71; Mon-Fri 10am-4pm)

Several private companies offer walking and bus tours of the city, as well as themed tours, such as Jewish Kraków or Communist Kraków, and longer excursions to Zakopane, the Wieliczka Salt Mines, and Auschwitz-Birkenau. The tourist information office can advise. Cracow City Tours, Pl. Matejki 2 (tel. 012/421-13-33; www.cracowcitytours.com), offers possibly the fullest range of options, including, among others, a John Paul II tour, a Schindler's List tour, and a Polish vodka-tasting night. Crazy Guides, Florianska 38 (tel. 0500/091-200; www.crazyguides.com), specializes in Communist theme tours, and offers both a "Communism" and a "Communism Deluxe" tour -- the latter includes lunch in a Communist-era milk bar.