Side Trips

Blue Rocks is a tiny, picturesque harbor a short drive from Lunenburg. It's every bit as scenic as Peggy's Cove, but without any of the tour buses. Head out of town on Pelham Street and just keep driving east, watching for signs indicating either THE POINT or THE LANE, and steer in that direction. The winding roadway gets narrower as the homes get more and more humble. Eventually, you'll reach the tip of the point, where it's just fishing shacks, bright boats, rocks, and views of spruce- and heath-covered islands offshore. I love it out here. The rocks are said to glow in a blue hue in certain light, hence the name; bring a camera and see if you can capture some of it. There's a small bike shop along the road to the neighborhood, the Lunenburg Bike Barn (tel. 902/634-3426; www.bikelunenburg.com) at 579 Blue Rocks Rd., run by the same family for what seems like ages. The Barn's helpful owners will rent you a bike for exploring the surroundings, dispense helpful info, even fix or otherwise service your bike in a pinch.

If you continue onward instead of turning toward "the point," you'll soon come to the enclave of Stonehurst, another cluster of homes gathered around a rocky harbor. The road forks along the way; the narrow, winding route to South Stonehurst is somewhat more scenic. This whole area is just ideal for exploring by bicycle, with twisting lanes, great vistas, and limited traffic.

Heading eastward along the other side of Lunenburg Harbor, you'll end up eventually at the Ovens Natural Park (tel. 902/766-4621; www.ovenspark.com) in Riverport, a privately owned campground and day-use park that sits on 1.6km (1 mile) of dramatic coastline. You can follow the seaside trail to view the "ovens" (sea caves, actually) for which the park was named. A closer view can be had on a Zodiac boat tour of the caves (call for prices). The park also features a cafe that serves up basic meals and a great view. Entrance fees are C$8 adults, C$4 seniors and children age 5 to 11, and campsites cost C$25 to C$55 per night -- the most expensive sites are on the water, with the best views -- and there are discounts for weekly stays. The park is open from May 15 to October 15.