Melbourne's ethnically diverse population ensures a healthy selection of international cuisines. Chinatown, in the city center, is a fabulous hunting ground for Chinese, Malaysian, Thai, Indonesian, Japanese, and Vietnamese fare, often at bargain prices. Carlton has plenty of Italian cuisine, but the outdoor restaurants on Lygon Street aim at unsuspecting tourists and can be overpriced and disappointing; avoid them. Richmond is crammed with Greek and Vietnamese restaurants, and Fitzroy has cheap Asian, Turkish, Mediterranean, and vegetarian food. To see and be seen, head to Chapel Street or Toorak Road in South Yarra, or to St. Kilda, where you can join the throng of Melbournians dining out along Fitzroy and Acland streets. Most of the cheaper places in Melbourne are strictly BYO (bring your own wine or beer). Smoking is banned by law in cafes and restaurants, so don't even think about lighting up.
Pay What You Think -- With a novel approach that's not surprisingly become a hit, vegetarian restaurant Lentil As Anything has a menu without prices. Here, you can eat then pay whatever you feel the meal and service is worth. The food is organic, with lots of noodles and vegetables and things like tofu, curries, and stir-fries. Before you leave, you put your money in a box. There are four in Melbourne -- at Abbotsford (tel. 03/9419 6444), St. Kilda (tel. 03/9534 5833), and Brunswick (tel. 03/9388 0222), where there is also Lentil Africa (tel. 03/9387 4647), run by a local African women's cooperative. They take cash only. Opening hours vary, so check the website, www.lentilasanything.com.
The Staff of Life -- The aroma of fresh bread attracts you to Babka Bakery, a Russian-style cafe-bakery which is nearly always packed. Come for breakfast or a light lunch of eggs on fresh sourdough, quiches, tarts, and brioches. Or perhaps try the homemade borscht. It's at 358 Brunswick St. in Fitzroy (tel. 03/9416 0091).
