Birrarung Marr, along the Yarra River east of Federation Square on Batman Avenue (tel. 03/9658 9658; www.melbourne.vic.gov.au/parks), is Melbourne's first new major parkland in more than 100 years. Birrarung means "river of mists" in the Woiwurrung language of the Wurundjeri people who originally inhabited the area; marr equates with the side of the river. Wide-open spaces and large, sculptured terraces were designed to host some of Melbourne's best events and festivals throughout the year, and the terraces give way to spectacular views of the city, Southbank, King's Domain, and the Yarra River.
The Royal Botanic Gardens, 2km (1 1/4 miles) south of the city on Birdwood Avenue, off St. Kilda Road (tel. 03/9252 2300), are the best gardens in Australia and well worth a few hours of wandering. More than 40 hectares (99 acres) are lush and blooming with more than 12,000 plant species from all over the world. Don't miss a visit to the oldest part of the garden, the Tennyson Lawn, with its 120-year-old English elm trees. Other special corners include a fern gully, camellia gardens, an herb garden, rainforests packed with fruit bats, and ponds full of ducks and black swans. Bring snacks and your picnic blanket to Shakespeare in the Park, a popular summer event from January to March. Tickets cost A$20 to A$35 (US$16-US$28/UK£8-UK£14). Call tel. 03/8676 7511 for details. The gardens are open November through March daily from 7:30am to 8:30pm; April, September, and October daily from 7:30am to 6pm; and May through August daily from 7:30am to 5:30pm. Admission is free. To get there, catch the no. 8 tram, traveling south, and get off at stop 21. Allow 2 to 4 hours.
Nearby, in King's Domain, take a look at Victoria's first Government House, Latrobe's Cottage (tel. 03/9654 5528). It was built in England and transported to Australia brick by brick in 1836. The cottage is open from 1 to 4pm on Sundays. Admission is by gold coin donation. You can also view it on a Government House tour (bookings essential, tel. 03/9656 9841) on Mondays and Wednesdays. On the other side of Birdwood Avenue is the Shrine of Remembrance, a memorial to the servicemen lost in Australia's wars. It's designed so that at 11am on Remembrance Day (Nov 11), a beam of sunlight hits the Stone of Remembrance in the Inner Shrine. Note the eternal flame in the forecourt. King's Domain is stop 12 on the no. 15 tram traveling south along St. Kilda Road.
In Fitzroy Gardens, off Wellington Parade, is Cooks' Cottage (tel. 03/9419 4677), which was moved to Melbourne from Great Ayton, in Yorkshire, England, in 1934 to mark Victoria's centenary. The cottage was built by the parents of Captain Cook, and today it provides the opportunity to learn about his voyages of discovery around the world. Inside, it's spartan and cramped, not unlike a ship's cabin. Admission is A$4 (US$3.20/UK£1.60) for adults, A$2 (US$1.60/UK80p) for children 5 to 15, and A$11 (US$8.80/UK£4.40) for a family. It's open daily from 9am to 5pm (except Dec 25). Also east of the central business district are the Treasury Gardens. Look for the memorial to John F. Kennedy near the lake. To reach Treasury Gardens and Fitzroy Gardens, take tram no. 75 traveling east along Flinders Street. Get off at stop 14 for Treasury Gardens, stop 14A for Fitzroy Gardens.