Introduction to Naples

Much has been written on Naples ("Napule," in local parlance), but nothing can render the multifaceted reality of this city better than a visit -- or actually several visits. The third Italian city by size, Naples is a big city (with the world's worst traffic outside of Cairo); but once you get past the initial grit, you'll find treasures galore, equaling and often surpassing many more-popular destinations in Italy.

The first adjective that comes to mind to define it is "ebullient." You'll feel this energy everywhere -- in the traffic, the noise, the music, the performing arts, and in the people's deep love for and pride in their city and in their fervent religiosity. Above all, you'll pick up on a sense of enthusiasm for what the city has to offer, from romantic evening walks along the shore to magnificent views over the Bay with Mount Vesuvius in the background to the beauty of Piazza del Plebiscito, Castel Nuovo, and Castel dell'Ovo. And, of course, this being Italy, Neapolitans are proud of their food, especially the fresh seafood; local tomatoes, which make excellent fresh sauces; and the pizza they invented.

The second adjective that describes Naples is "welcoming." Neapolitans reach out to visitors and relish others' enjoyment of their beloved city. Maybe that is the most truly fascinating thing about Naples: It has incredible architectural and artistic attractions, natural beauty, and fantastic food and wines, but ultimately, when you fall in love with the city, you'll do so because of its humanity. When you walk the streets of Naples, you'll understand that its underlying character hasn't changed much in 2 millennia. It takes a certain kind of people, surely, to live in the shadow of a very dangerous volcano, century after century, and to find it beautiful.

This appreciation should not make you less careful with your belongings: Police work has been effective in reducing crime and making the tourist areas safer than ever, but Naples is legendary for its pickpockets and other petty criminals. Large parts of Naples are very poor and as plagued as any such place by drugs and thievery. Though depressed areas of Naples are well in the outskirts, even the most experienced travelers should always keep a careful eye on their belongings.

If you get past the noise, you can relax and discover a city that many visitors over the centuries have described in justly heavenly terms. The city's artistic and historical riches are more accessible today after refurbishment of the historic center in the 1990s.

Allow at least 2 full days for this city, with its matchless museums, culinary delights, and amazing churches.