Walking Tours

SpaccaNapoli refers to the succession of streets that divides Naples's historic district into two equal halves (spacca means "cracks"). The oldest part of town, it dates back to Greek and Roman times and has been the city's heart ever since. If you have only one afternoon in Naples, you should definitely dedicate it to this area: Along SpaccaNapoli and its cross streets, you will find Naples's most interesting artistic and cultural highlights, including the city's best churches, as well as notable small shops and traditional craftsmakers.

Start: Piazza del Gesù.

Finish: Duomo.

Time: 2 hours for the walk, but you could turn it into a day-long tour with all the interior visits.

Best Times: Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 1pm and 4 to 7pm, when most of the churches and museums are open.

Worst Times: Evening, when everything is closed. Sunday morning, because many churches cannot be visited during Mass. Monday, when some of the museums are closed. Lunchtime is also tricky, because only some of the attractions are open then.

1. Piazza del Gesù

This pleasant piazza is defined by the Guglia dell'Addolorata at its center. One of Naples's typical baroque spires, this particular one was created by the Jesuits to commemorate their principles and was placed in front of their church, the Chiesa del Gesù. Its striking facade was once that of Palazzo Sanseverino, sold to the Jesuits in the 15th century and preserved when the church was built. Inside, you'll find several noteworthy works of art, including a fresco by Solimena.

Cross the piazza to the beginning of Via Benedetto Croce. A few steps farther up to the right is the:

2. Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara

This huge religious complex includes a church, a monastery, and a museum. The church itself contains some beautiful monumental tombs and the Choir of the Clares, but if your time is tight, walk along the church's outer wall and take the entrance to the right, leading to the Clares' Cloister, a majolica masterpiece that shouldn't be missed.

Return to Via Benedetto Croce and continue on to no. 12 at your left. It is:

3. Palazzo Filomarino

This palazzo is one of the oldest in Naples, built in the 14th century and redone in the 16th. You can go through its portal and peek at its monumental internal court, dating from the 16th century. Here lived and died the Italian 20th-century historian and philosopher Benedetto Croce, after whom the street is named.

Return to Via Benedetto Croce and continue on, passing a number of other elegant palazzi, until you reach:

4. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

This is one of the most beautiful squares in Naples, graced in the center by the Guglia di San Domenico, another of Naples's spires. This one was built between 1658 and 1737, in thanks for the end of a plague that struck in 1656. It is lined by beautiful palazzi; we recommend you peek into no. 17, the 18th-century Palazzo di Sangro di Casacalenda, finished by Vanvitelli and with a beautiful inner court; and no. 3, the 15th-century Palazzo Petrucci, with its striking original portal and loggias. Also in the square is San Domenico Maggiore: The artwork in this church is exceptional, including 14th-century frescoes and spectacular 16th-century sculptures.

Pasticceria Scaturchio

Whether you need a break or not, you should stop at Pasticceria Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19; tel. 081-5516944), a historical pastry and coffee shop right on the square across from the church. Here you can enjoy excellent coffee and sample wonderful pastries or try their Ministeriale, a medallion of dark chocolate with a liqueur cream filling.

Go back toward the church and walk along its side on Vicolo San Domenico. Take the first right, to Via Francesco de Sanctis. At no. 19 you will find the:

5. Cappella di San Severo

This private chapel is decorated with some of the best Neapolitan sculptures from the 17th and 18th centuries. It is imbued with the spirit of its decorator, the mysterious alchemist and scientist Prince Raimondo de Sangro.

Walk back to Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and continuing east on Via Benedetto Croce you'll find yourself in the:

6. Piazzetta Nilo

This piazza was named after the Hellenistic Egyptian statue of the Nile that graces one of its corners. Believed in medieval times to depict a mother with her children, the statue was adopted as an image of the city of Naples, hence its name in local parlance -- cuorp'e Napule, or body of Naples. You'll also find the Sant'Angelo a Nilo church here, with its monumental tomb of Cardinal Brancaccio, designed and partly sculpted by Donatello.

Continue on Via Benedetto Croce, which turns into Via San Biagio dei Librai, named after the bookstores which traditionally have lined this street. At no. 114, to your right, is the:

7. Cappella del Monte di Pietà

This small chapel is a beautiful example of 16th-century art, perfect in style and richly decorated. Its sacristy and adjoining rooms are in perfectly preserved 18th-century style, down to the floors and furnishings.

Take the alley on the right before the Cappella, Vicolo Santi Severino e Sossio, and follow it to the entrance, to your left, of the:

8. Chiesa dei Santi Severino e Sossio (with Adjoining Monastery and State Archives)

This church is part of a large religious complex, the monastery of Saints Sevenrino and Sossio, which is one of the oldest and richest monasteries of Naples. Both the church and the monastery are beautifully decorated with 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century art. The monastery today houses the State Archives (entrance on Piazzetta Grande Archivio; tel. 081-563811), but it is open to the public, who can visit its 16th-century cloisters and beautifully frescoed rooms.

Return to Via San Biagio dei Librai and continue on to:

9. Via San Gregorio Armeno

This is one of Naples's most famous streets, known for the many artist's workshops and merchants, specializing in presepio works (manger scenes). On this lively street (hold on to your wallet and other precious belongings in the crowds), you'll find the Church and Convent of San Gregorio Armeno with its beautifully preserved cloister and stunning artwork.

Continue on to the end of Via San Gregorio Armeno and turn right onto Via dei Tribunali to arrive at:

10. Piazza San Gaetano

This piazza is home to two of Naples's major churches, San Lorenzo Maggiore (to your right) and San Paolo Maggiore (to your left). Both are rich in art and history and well worth a visit. In San Lorenzo Maggiore, you can descend into an archaeological excavation going back to the Greek layer of town, ancient Neapolis.

Caffetteria Pasticceria Gelateria G. Mazzaro

Caffetteria Pasticceria Gelateria G. Mazzaro (Palazzo Spinelli, Via Tribunali 359; tel. 081-459248; www.pasticceriamazzaro.it) is a valiant competitor of Pasticceria Scaturchio, above. In addition to excellent coffee and pastries, this shop makes some of the best gelato in town, in a variety of flavors.

Continue on Via dei Tribunali to Piazza dei Girolamini, opening to your left. Here is the:

11. Chiesa and Quadreria dei Girolamini

This church and attached monastery hold a treasure trove of artwork by great artists, including Luca Giordano, Pietro da Cortona, Francesco Solimena, Guido Reni, and Cavalier d'Arpino.

Return to Via dei Tribunali and continue on it until you reach Via del Duomo, where you'll make a left. To your right is the entrance to the:

12. Duomo

Monumental in scope, this church actually houses two other churches, the paleochristian Santa Restituta -- known as Naples Duomo until the 14th century -- and the 17th-century Real Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro, considered the most richly decorated chapel in Naples. The museum attached to the church is also well worth a visit.

Pizza Break

Via dei Tribunali is home to some of the best pizzerie in Naples: If you're hankering for something substantial, head back along this street to Pizzaiolo del Presidente (Via Tribunali 120; tel. 081-210903; closed Sun), Pizzeria Di Matteo (Via dei Tribunali 94; tel. 081-455262), or, farther along, Sorbillo (Via Tribunali 32; tel. 081-446643; closed Sun). They all prepare excellent pizza.