A sunset walk through Santa Lucia and along the waterfront is one of the lasting pleasures in Naples. You can stroll by the glass-enclosed Galleria Umberto I, off Via Roma across from the Teatro San Carlo. The 19th-century gallery is still standing today, although it's a little the worse for wear. It's a kind of social center for Naples, with lots of shopping and dining possibilities.
Naples's oldest cafe, dating from 1860, is the palatial Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia 1, near the Galleria Umberto I (tel. 081-417582). Along the vaulted ceiling of an inner room, Empire-style caryatids spread their togas in high relief above frescoes of mythological playmates. The cafe is known for its espresso and cappuccino, as well as pastries and cakes whose variety dazzles the eye. You can also order potato-and-rice croquettes and fried pizzas for a light lunch. Cappuccino goes for 3€ ($3.90/£2) a table (coffee 3€/$3.90/£2 a table). The cafe is open daily 7am to 2am.
Opera -- The Teatro di San Carlo, Via San Carlo 98, across from the Galleria Umberto (tel. 081-7972331), is one of the largest opera houses in Italy, with some of the best acoustics. In our view, the operas staged here are just as impressive as anything opening at Milan's more celebrated La Scala. Even Callas and Pavarotti have trod the boards here at San Carlo. Built in only 6 months for King Charles's birthday in 1737, it was restored in a gilded neoclassical style. Grand-scale productions are presented on the main stage. October through May, the box office is open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 7pm; June through September Monday to Friday 10am to 4:30pm (closed Aug). Tickets cost 25€ to 800€ ($33-$1,040/£17-£536).
Bars & Clubs -- On its nightclub/cabaret circuit, Naples offers more sucker joints than any other Mediterranean port. If you're starved for action, you'll find plenty of it -- and you're likely to end up paying for it dearly.
Chez Moi, Via del Parco Margherita 13 (tel. 081-407526), is one of the city's best-managed nightclubs, refusing entrance to anyone who looks like a troublemaker. This is appreciated by the designers, government ministers, and socialites who enjoy the place. The crowd tends to be over 25. The place is open Friday and Saturday 10:30pm to 4 or 5am. Occasionally there's a cabaret act or a live pianist at the bar, but more frequently the music is disco. The cover is 13€ to 15€ ($17-$20/£8.70-£10).
Piazza Bellini thrives at night, especially at the favorite rendezvous, Caffè Intramoenia, Piazza Bellini 70 (tel. 081-290720), which opened shop in a former bookstore. Drinkers occupy outdoor tables here even in winter. Another popular gathering spot in the Chiaia district is Enoteca Belledonne, Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18 (tel. 081-403162), the neighborhood's choice joint for an aperitivo. You'll be surrounded by genial people and glass-fronted cabinets filled with an array of wine bottles. Some of the best wines of Campania are available here by the glass.
Most gay nightlife is centered in the Posillipo neighborhood, where you'll find Tongue, Via Alessandro Manzoni 207 (tel. 081-7690800). It has a mixed crowd, a large part of whom are gay, dancing to techno music. It is open only on weekends 9pm to 3am and charges a cover of 15€ ($20/£10).
