Shopping

Naples is a great source of Italian designer clothes and accessories, as well as for antiques and crafts. You have to know your stuff, though, and be careful, since Naples is where fakes were invented back in the 17th or 18th century -- and the industry is still very much alive. It is a good idea to stay away from counterfeit goods altogether, even if you know that what you are buying is a fake and the price is right, as you risk heavy fines at customs on your way home: Most countries are cracking down on such purchases as a way to protect brand identity.

You'll be perfectly safe in the reputable shops we list below. Opening hours for stores are generally Monday to Saturday from 10:30am to 1pm and from 4 to 7:30pm.

Chiaia is where to go for the big names of Italian fashion, such as Valentino, Versace, Ferragamo, Prada, and local designer Marinella (Via Riviera di Chiaia 287; tel. 081-7644214), famous for classic and colorful ties. You'll also find a number of interesting boutiques. Nearby, you'll find some of the most reputable antiques dealers, such as Regency House (Via D. Morelli 36; tel. 081-7643640) and Navarra (Piazza dei Martiri; tel. 081-7643595). Every third Saturday and Sunday of each month from 8am to 2pm (except in Aug), a Fiera Antiquaria, or Antique Fair, tel. 081-621951) is held in the Villa Comunale di Napoli on Viale Dohrn.

For more casual shopping and some specialty stores, try strolling popular Via Toledo. Here you will find the historical chocolate factory Gay-Odin (Via Toledo 214 and Via Toledo 427). You'll also find the elegant shops of the Galleria Umberto I, such as Ascione 1855 (tel. 081-421111) and its cameo workshop, where you can witness the delicate carving of agate and coral and purchase unique jewelry.

The best place to shop for crafts is the historic district. Head for Via San Gregorio Armeno if you are looking for presepio: The most reputable workshops are Gambardella Pastori (Via San Gregorio Armeno 40; tel. 081-5517107) and Giuseppe Ferrigno (Via San Gregorio Armeno 8; tel. 081-5523148). Via San Biagio dei Librai is lined with interesting shops selling paper goods and jewelry. A good address for antique prints and books is Libreria Colonnese (Via San Pietro a Majella 32; tel. 081-459858), nearby.

The Presepio

Although the tradition of nativity scenes -- called presepio in Italy -- dates back to the 13th century, the art form really reached its peak in the 18th and 19th centuries when the aristocracy competed to acquire figurines for their mangers, modeled by the famous sculptors of the time. All the great names of sculpture participated in this game, creating the terra-cotta parts of the figurines (usually the head and limbs). These were then mounted on a mannequin of wire and stoppa (fiber) by craftsmen, and richly dressed with precious silk clothes embroidered with gold. Only the wealthier aristocrats could purchase such works of art, and all others had to make do with copies produced by nativity craftsmen. These skilled artists-artisans were sculptors, goldsmiths, tailors, and scenographers, who created everything from the figures to the complicated settings -- grottoes, buildings, rivers, and ponds -- combining their crafts into the first examples of multimedia art. These figures, which depicted popular characters and scenes, created somewhat faithful renditions of society at the time.

The presepio tradition is still alive today, and Neapolitan mangers continue to go beyond typical nativity representations to depict current historical and political happenings. Among the figures you'll find on sale are such recognizable characters as Lady Diana, Mother Teresa of Calcutta, and even Versace. Via San Gregorio Armeno near the Duomo is where most of the historic workshops, along with several merchants, are located. The artisans who have carried on their crafts from father to son have organized into a guild that protects their traditions, but only a few of them have survived the times. In the shops along this street, you'll find everything from characters and rocks, to grottoes and miniature street lamps. At the back of the few authentic laboratories, you'll also find figurines carefully crafted in different sizes, from amazingly precise half-inch miniatures, to life-size figures, to realistic sceneries. While commercial mangers come in a variety of prices, the real thing is rather expensive, and few customers can afford the real thing: A medium-size hand-painted and -crafted terra-cotta shepherd can cost as much as 300€ ($420/£210).