A Trip Down the Río San Juan to El Castillo
San Carlos is a hot, fetid port town straight out of a Graham Greene novel. It is the sort of place you only stay in if waiting for something -- usually the next boat to the Solentiname Archipelago or the next plane to Managua. If you find yourself trapped in this grubby little place, the two best hotels are Hotel Carelys (tel. 505/583-0389) and Cabinas Leyko (tel. 505/583-0354). Very basic rooms at both range from C380 ($20/£10) to C950 ($50/£25).
San Carlos is at the mouth of the Río San Juan and the departure point for a pleasant river journey 70km (43 miles) downriver to the old historical fort town of El Castillo. The truly adventurous can continue another 140km (87 miles) to the lonely Caribbean port town of San Juan del Norte. Boats to El Castillo depart at 8am midday and 3pm daily and cost C100 ($5/£2.50) and return to San Carlos at 5am, 7am, and 2pm. The journey takes 3 hours and affords beautiful views of the wide river and its green, tree-lined banks. Birdlife is abundant, with large flocks of egrets and cormorants swirling overhead. Look out for the occasional kingfisher and the large silver fish called a tarpon, which slips through the water like a dolphin. You might think you have reached the end of the world on this boat trip, but believe it or not, thousands of people once traveled up this river when it was the popular Vanderbilt route to California during the gold rush. Some old abandoned steamboats can be seen farther downstream past El Castillo. This river journey is interrupted by several stops to pick up and drop off people at small settlements on the way to the fort. The occasional boat even pulls up to sell food and drinks.
Once in El Castillo, you'll find the dark-stained stone remains of the Spanish fort El Castillo de la Inmaculada Concepción de Maria, which reminded me of a Maya temple. It's a relic of just how important the river was as a gateway between Europe and Central America. The Spanish built several forts along the river to deter marauding pirates bent on raiding prosperous Granada. El Castillo was the biggest, and was constructed between 1602 and 1625. The fort is situated on a river bend and sits high over the village, with excellent views downriver. In its heyday it had 32 cannons trained on any strangers coming this way and was a formidable obstacle. It was the scene of many skirmishes and sieges, with the British briefly taking it in 1780. It now holds an interesting museum and library, which charge a single entrance fee of C19 ($1/50p). It is open daily from 10am to 4pm.
The village of El Castillo itself hugs the riverbank and is home to 1,500 souls. If you should decide to stay, the best hotel is Hotel Albergue El Castillo (tel. 505/892-0174). Rooms with shared bathrooms start at C285 ($15/£7.50).
Montecristo River Lodge -- Several miles before El Castillo is a rustic resort set on a lush green slope. You cannot miss it, as its name, Montecristo (tel. 505/583-0197; www.montecristoriver.com), is spelled out in huge white letters along the riverbank and a long thatched walkway leads up to its series of huts and cabins. Originally a simple fishing lodge, Montecristo now practices sustainable tourism, by offering ecofriendly accommodations set in a wildlife refuge with hiking trails. The hotel also organizes river excursions on their small fleet of boats.
