Regions in Brief

The vast majority of Nicaraguans live and work in the Pacific Lowlands on the west coast of the country, and this is where you will undoubtedly be spending much of your time. In this part of the country, lofty volcanoes tower along hot dusty plains that run from the northern highlands and around two major lakes as far as the Pacific coastline and Costa Rica. At its center is the strange, elusive capital city of Managua on the shore of Lago Xolotlán, also known as Lago de Managua. Technically, the Northwest, Granada, and Masaya, and the Southwest all fall within this larger region, but I've divided up this chapter according to these three smaller subregions.

The Northwest

The university city of León oozes history with its countless churches and museums and the largest cathedral in Central America. Here you can surf dark Pacific shores or darker volcanic slopes. The fertile volcanic soil and two distinct seasons here means this low-lying area is the country's most agriculturally productive region, though much of it is also dry jungle bush.

Granada & Masaya

León's colonial rival Granada is on the great, dominating lake of Cocibolca, also known as Lago de Nicaragua. The old merchant city is an architectural marvel and easily the most beautiful spot in Nicaragua. It is also close to many of Nicaragua's best attractions, such as the handicraft Mecca Masaya and the satellite artisan villages known as Pueblos Blancas. Volcán Masaya is the most accessible and frightening field of craters and red-hot lava, while Volcán Mombacho boasts great hiking. The huge crater lake Laguna de Apoyo is a refreshing dip and peaceful shore-side retreat.

The Southwest

Nicaragua's southwestern shore is littered with numerous beach towns, the most interesting of which is San Juan del Sur, close to the Costa Rican border. This colorful clapboard village lies amid a string of beautiful beaches offering great surfing, fishing, and lounging. To the south is Reserva La Flor, the scene of spectacular nighttime turtle hatching.

Lago de Nicaragua

The wide, expansive Lago de Nicaragua is surrounded by volcanic peaks and is home to hundreds of islands, including the cone-shaped twin peaks of Isla de Ometepe, a serene jungle island with excellent trekking, horse riding, and beaches. Farther south is the rainbow-colored artists' colony Archipelago de Solentiname. Lake Nicaragua is also the only freshwater lake to hold shark. The Río San Juan connects it to the Caribbean, and the lake's eastern shore is tantalizingly close to the Pacific coast. The truly adventurous can take the pirate route from here down the jungle river of San Juan to the old Spanish fort of El Castillo.

The Caribbean

The Caribbean coast and its huge interior cover half of Nicaragua, and this region comprises the widest lowland plain in Central America. It is also the most sparsely populated part of Nicaragua and in many ways seems like a different country. It's far from hospitable, especially to the north. Swampy, tropical rainforest is punctuated by lagoons, deltas, and muddy river mouths. Though it may not be as hot as the western side of the country, it is very wet and humid.

Twenty-three rivers run from the central highlands as far as the Atlantic coast. The Río Coco in the north is the longest and forms part of the Honduran border. The Río San Juan to the south forms the boundary with Costa Rica and makes for an epic journey from Lago Nicaragua. The people are different, too, a rattle bag of indigenous tribes (predominantly Miskito) mixed with Afro-Caribbeans and descendants of English buccaneers. They speak both Spanish and patois English and predominantly live off fishing, along with a little lumbering and tourism.

The most important towns are the rusty ports of Bluefields and Puertas Cabezas. The former is becoming important from a tourism point of view. The gritty town of Bluefields can only be reached by river or air but is the gateway to the beautiful Pearl Lagoon and the sandy, desert islands of the Pearl Cays. It is also the jumping-off point to reach two Nicaraguan jewels -- the Corn Islands, 80km (50 miles) off the coast and surrounded by perfect white beaches and coral reef amid turquoise waters.

The North-Central Region

North of Lago Xolotlan (Lago Managua), the ground gradually rises into the steep mountain highlands of Northern Nicaragua, pushing as far as the country's highest mountain, the 2,438m-high (7,996-ft.) Pico Mogotón at the Honduran border. Here the temperature is cooler and the landscape picturesque. River valleys run through pine-covered hills and cloud forests of hardwood. Waterfalls, orchids, and numerous birds vie for your attention in important nature reserves such as Miraflor. This region is also very fertile in parts and agriculturally important, producing Nicaragua's black gold, coffee, as well as tobacco and livestock. Apanás Dam here is an important source of electricity for the entire country.

In the far north, you'll find numerous small towns in a rugged interior -- the two most important are Estelí and Matagalpa. This is cowboy country, home to a tough and resilient people who can be hospitable and aloof at the same time, but are always fascinating. It is one of the least visited parts of the country but offers excellent trekking and nature watching, as well as lodgings in lush mountain retreats and fair-trade coffee plantations.