Ucluelet -- Fine dining is only just beginning to have a presence here, as urban refugees with a flair for cooking try to make a go of coastal living. The Matterson Teahouse and Garden, 1682 Peninsula Rd. (tel. 250/726-2200), is a great spot for lunch. Sandwiches, salads, and a great chowder are served in the cute dining room; evening hours are unusual, so be sure to call ahead. Overlooking the harbor is Eagle's Nest Marine Pub, 140 Bay St. (tel. 250/726-7515), open Monday to Saturday 10am to midnight and Sunday 10am to 10pm, with traditional pub grub. The Stewart Room Restaurant on the Canadian Princess, 1943 Peninsula (tel. 250/726-7771) offers seafood and fine dining aboard a 71m (235-ft.) moored ship.
Tofino--For a cup of java and a snack, it's hard to beat the Caffé Vincenté, 441 Campbell St. (tel. 250/725-2599), a touch of urban hip near the entrance to town. The cafe also does an excellent breakfast and lunch and serves afternoon dessert. Tofino's dining darling of the moment is SOBO (tel. 250/725-2341) a catering wagon at the Tofino Botanical Gardens (1084 Pacific Rim Hwy.) that serves inexpensive, well-prepared lunches featuring Asian noodles as well as wraps, salads, and soups that are also available to go (C$6-C$18/US$4.80-US$14). At night, the operation moves indoors to the botanical garden visitor center. SOBO's food is certainly tasty and an inexpensive meal in Tofino is welcome, but you decide if the quality matches the hype generated by rave-up articles in Gourmet magazine and the New York Times. See The Inn at Tough City for a description of Tough City Sushi.