Shelter

Frommer's Review

You don't come to this land-locked restaurant for the view, but, rather, for the cooking, which is remarkable in its bright flavors and textures. Shelter, which buys most of its fish and fresh ingredients directly from producers -- right off the boat and right off the land -- is one of the best of Tofino's new crop of restaurants. Their signature bouillabaisse is stuffed with local fish and shellfish and simmered in a fire-roasted tomato broth; a delicate halibut filet surmounts a bed of spot-prawn risotto. Local white wines dominate the wine list, chosen to highlight the delicate flavors of fish and seafood. Just as there's no ocean view in the narrow, fireplace-warmed dining room, there's also no kitschy totem poles or wooden seagulls in fishing nets. Instead, a single, heraldic surfboard, emblematic of the youthful energy of Shelter's cooking style, dominates the dining room.

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