Planning a Trip

Getting There & Departing

By Car -- The traditional route here is to take the Interamerican Highway from San José to Puntarenas and catch the ferry to either Naranjo or Paquera. Montezuma is about 50 minutes south of Tambor, 1 1/4 hours south of Paquera, and 2 3/4 hours south of Naranjo. The road from Paquera to Tambor is paved and usually in pretty good shape, and taking the Paquera ferry will save you time and some rough, dusty driving. The road from Naranjo to Paquera is all dirt and gravel and in bad shape.

Naviera Tambor (tel. 661-2084) ferries to Paquera leave Puntarenas roughly every 2 to 3 hours between 5am and 8:30pm. The trip takes 1 1/2 hours. The fare is around $9 (£4.50) for a car and driver, $1.20 (60p) for additional adults, 80¢ (40p) for children. I recommend arriving early during the peak season and on weekends because lines can be long; if you miss the ferry, you'll have to wait around 2 hours or more for the next one. Moreover, the ferry schedule changes frequently, with fewer ferries during the low season, and the occasional extra ferry during the high season to meet demand. It is always best to check in advance.

The Naranjo ferry (tel. 661-1069) leaves daily at 6:30 and 10am and 2:30 and 7pm. The trip takes 1 1/2 hours. The fare is $9 (£4.50) for cars, $1.60 (80p) for adults, and 80¢ (40p) for children.

Another option is to drive via the Tempisque River bridge. Although heading farther north and crossing the bridge is more circuitous, you will be driving the whole time, which at least feels faster than taking a seaborne ferry. Moreover, you will not be at the whim of the ferry schedule and the sometimes sold-out boats. To go this route, take the Interamerican Highway west from San José. Forty-seven kilometers (29 miles) past the turnoff for Puntarenas, turn left for the Tempisque River bridge. After you cross the Tempisque River, head to Quebrada Honda and then south to route 21, following signs for San Pablo, Jicaral, Lepanto, Playa Naranjo, and Paquera. This route is an option if you foresee waiting more than 2 hours for a ferry.

The car ferry from Paquera to Puntarenas leaves roughly every 2 hours between 8am and 10pm. Note: If you have to wait for the ferry, do not leave your car unattended, since break-ins are common.

By Bus & Ferry -- Transportes Rodriguez Hermanos (tel. 642-0740, or 642-0219) runs three daily direct buses between San José and Montezuma. The buses leave from the Coca Cola bus terminal at Calle 12 and Avenida 5 at 7:30am and 12:30 and 5pm. The fare is around $10 (£5), including the ferry ride, and the trip takes around 5 hours.

Alternately, it takes two buses and a ferry ride to get to Montezuma. Express buses (tel. 222-0064) for Puntarenas leave San José daily every hour between 6am and 8pm from Calle 16 and Avenida 12. Trip duration is 2 1/2 hours; the fare is $2.80 (£1.40).

From Puntarenas, you can take one of the car ferries mentioned above or the passenger launch Paquereña (tel. 641-0515), which leaves from the pier behind the market at 11:30am and 4pm. Ferry-trip duration is 1 1/2 hours; the fare is 80¢ (40p). A bus south to Montezuma will be waiting to meet the ferry when it arrives in Paquera. The bus ride takes about 1 1/2 hours; the fare is $2.50 (£1.25). Be careful not to take the Naranjo ferry because it does not meet with regular onward bus transportation to Montezuma.

Buses are met by hordes of locals trying to corral you to one of the many budget hotels. Remember, they are getting a commission for every body they bring in, so their information is biased.

When you're ready to head back, direct leave Montezuma at 5:15 and 8:15am, and 3:15pm. Regular local buses to Paquera leave Montezuma roughly every 2 hours throughout the day starting around 4am. The Paquereña ferry returns for Puntarenas at 7:30am and 2pm. Total trip duration is 3 1/2 hours. Buses to San José leave Puntarenas daily every hour between 5am and 8pm.

Orientation

As the winding mountain road that descends into Montezuma bottoms out, you turn left onto a small dirt road that defines the village proper. On this 1-block road, you will find El Sano Banano Village Cafe and, across from it, a small park with its own basketball court and children's playground. The bus stops at the end of this road. From here, hotels are scattered up and down the beach and around the village's few sand streets. If you're looking for Internet access, try the high-speed satellite connections offered at El Sano Banano's Internet cafe.