Attractions

Visitors with little time can pack in a lot of attractions in just 1 day, given that most of the city's highlights are found in a localized area that runs along the length of the Mapocho River. I recommend that visitors begin in el centro, the city's historic center and home to museums, cathedrals, cultural centers, and civic institutions. Pick a few attractions that pique your interest, then walk over to the Barrio París-Londres neighborhood. Cross back over Avenida Alameda to the Cerro Santa Lucía hilltop park, and take a stroll through the charming streets of Parque Forestal, Santiago's burgeoning arts-and-cafe neighborhood. From here, it is just a short walk across the Mapocho River to the bohemian Bellavista neighborhood and Cerro San Cristóbal. If you still have time, wander around the shopping district of Providencia by crossing back over the river.

Now, if you do indeed have only 1 day, you're going to have to hustle and get a very early start, or narrow attractions down to only those that really interest you. Travelers with 2 or 3 days can take this tour at a more leisurely pace, and visit more off-the-beaten-track attractions such as the Quinta Normal Park or Barrio Brasil.

Especially for Kids

The Parque Metropolitano Zoo, the aerial tram at Cerro San Cristóbal, the Museum of Science and Technology, and the Railway Museum described above are all ideal for kids. The spacious Parque Bernardo O'Higgins is a tired, worn-down park frequented by blue-collar Santiaguinos who come to fly kites and barbecue on the weekends; nothing worth seeing here except Fantasilandia, a modern amusement park (tel. 2/476-8600; www.fantasilandia.cl); admission is $11 (£5.25) adults, $7.25 (£3.65) children. It's open April through November on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays only from 11am to 8:30pm; December through March Tuesday through Friday from 2 to 8pm, Saturday and Sunday from noon to 9pm. It's the largest amusement park in Chile, with four stomach-churning roller coasters, a toboggan ride, and a haunted house. The Museo Interactivo Mirador (MIM) and the Santiago Aquarium are neighbors within an 11-hectare (27-acre) park in the La Granja barrio. Inaugurated in 2000, MIM dedicates itself to providing children with an introduction to the world of science and technology. Adults will be fascinated by MIM, too. The ultramodern museum has more than 300 exhibits, mostly interactive displays that cover the range of paleontology, computer animation, robotics, and 3-D cinema. You could spend nearly a full day here if you choose to check out the aquarium and its frolicking sea lion show. Buy a combo ticket for both if you have enough time. To get here, take Metro Line 5 to the Mirador stop (two entrances: Sebastopol 90 and Punta Arenas 6711; tel. 2/280-7800; www.mim.cl; $5.75/£2.90 adults, $3.85/£1.95 children; combo ticket with aquarium $8.65/£4.35 adults, $6.75/£3.40 children).

Organized Tours

Major hotels work with quality tour operators and can recommend a tour even at the last minute; however, you'd be better off planning ahead and reserving a tour with an operator who can show you the more interesting side of Santiago or who is more attuned to foreign guests' desires or needs (that is, a guide who is truly bilingual). The following tours are operated by Chilean-American outfits.

Culinary Tour: Hip Santiago Centro presents a way to see, and taste, a different side of Santiago. Tours are led by American expat Liz Caskey. The tour kicks off with a walking tour through a typical farmer's market in the old-fashioned Brasil neighborhood, followed by a visit to the Mercado Central and a walk through the picturesque Parque Forestal neighborhood, and then to Liz's spacious apartment overlooking the park for a three-course lunch expertly paired with fine wines. Guests are welcome to join in on the cooking if they wish. Tours are available Monday through Saturday and depart at 10:30am. The tour lasts about 4 to 5 hours. For more information and a price quote, contact tel. 2/226-6939 or 9/821-9230, or visit www.lizcaskey.com.

Santiago Adventures offers a half-day historical and cultural tour of the city, beginning in the Plaza de Armas and visiting La Moneda, the París-Londres neighborhood, the San Francisco colonial church, the Bellavista neighborhood, and the Cerro San Cristóbal. Daily tours are half-day (4 hr.) and visitors may choose one museum to visit: Cousiño Macul museum, the Pre-Columbian Museum, or Pablo Neruda's house. Tours cost $85 (£43) per person, based on two people (price goes down as group size grows), and includes entrance fees, bilingual guide, transportation, and bottled water. Santiago Adventures can be reached at tel. 2/244-2750 or www.santiagoadventures.com.