Getting Around

By Metro

Cheap, clean, and efficient, the Metro subway (www.metrosantiago.cl) is the fastest way to get around in the city, and its stations are adorned with murals painted by some of Chile's most important artists. However, there is one major caveat: The recent implementation of a new bus transportation system has funneled many bus riders onto the Metro, meaning that the Metro is jam-packed during rush hour, generally from 7 to 10am and 5 to 7pm.

There are five Metro lines. Line 1 is the principal Metro line for travelers, as it runs from Las Condes to attractions and bus stations downtown. Line 2 transfers from Line 1 at Los Heroes and stops at Cal y Canto (near the Mercado Central). Lines 4 and 4a are residential lines connecting Avenida Alameda with La Reina. Line 5 takes travelers transferring at Baquedano to Plaza de Armas and the Quinta Normal park. There are two fares, 70¢ (35p) from 6:30 to 7:15am, 9am to 6pm, and 7:30 to 10:30pm; and 85¢ (45p) from 7:15 to 9am and 6 to 8pm. If you plan to ride the Metro frequently, consider purchasing a Multiviaje card -- just have the clerk charge the card with as much as you anticipate spending. Fares using the card are 20 pesos cheaper for each ride, and you won't have to wait in line to buy a ticket each time you travel. The Metro is open daily and generally safe, but pickpocket incidents are on the rise with the new influx of passengers, so keep a sharp eye on your belongings.

By Bus

The Santiago bus system has undergone an overhaul, replacing old yellow buses with new gleaming white-and-green "TransSantiago" coaches, which you cannot ride without a "BIP" transit card. However, it is nearly impossible for a foreigner (or even a local) to find a BIP kiosk to buy one. In other words, city buses, or micros, are out of the question for travelers.

By Taxi

Taxis are reasonably priced and plentiful. They are identifiable by their black exterior and yellow roof; there's also a light in the corner of the windshield that displays a taxi's availability. Always check to see that the meter is in plain view, to avoid rip-offs. Drivers do not expect tips. Do not confuse taxis with colectivos, which are similar in appearance but without the yellow roof -- these are local, shared taxis with fixed routes that are too confusing to visitors to recommend taking one.

By Car

Do not rent a vehicle if staying within metropolitan Santiago, but consider doing so if you are an independent traveler seeking to visit the coast, Cajón de Maipo, or wine country. Santiago's slick new Costanera Norte (an express transit tunnel that runs from La Dehesa and Las Condes to the Panamericana Highway and the airport) has entrances and exits along the River Mapocho, but finding one can be confusing, so check out their website at www.costaneranorte.cl for a map, or ask your rental agency or hotel to guide you. The city's new "TAG" system (an automatic toll charged electronically to the vehicle) is included in the rental price. Downtown Santiago, and the entire length of Avenida Alameda/Avenida Providencia are not recommended for timid drivers. Buses and other drivers steadfastly refuse to let other vehicles merge into their lane, so be prepared early to turn or exit a highway.

Rentals -- At the airport you'll find most international rental agencies, such as Alamo (tel. 2/690-1370; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel. 2/690-1382; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 2/690-1233; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 2/202-5510; www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel. 2/601-0977; www.hertz.com), and local agency Rosselot (tel. 800/201298). All agencies have downtown or Providencia offices. Generally, Rosselot and Dollar are lower in cost.

Driving Tips -- Chileans use their horn and their indicators habitually to warn other motorists or advise them of their next move. Right turns on red lights are forbidden unless otherwise indicated. The concept of "merging" is entirely foreign to Chilean drivers -- you'll need to be a little aggressive to get into another lane, or wait until all traffic passes by to enter. The two yellow lanes running the length of Avenida Alameda (which changes its name to Providencia, 11 de Septiembre, and Apoquindo in other neighborhoods) are bus lanes, and drivers of vehicles may enter only when preparing to make a right turn. Rental agencies can be unhelpful, and they usually do not have maps, especially regional maps. The Turistel road guide website has route maps that can be printed (www.turistel.cl). It's a good idea to arrive prepared, as gas stations are often sold out of maps.

Parking -- Every hotel with the exception of budget hostals offers on-site, free parking. There is no street parking downtown except Saturdays and Sundays, although there are underground lots called estacionamientos that are recognizable by a blue sign with a giant "E." In Providencia, along Avenida Providencia, there is a series of expensive underground lots. Santiago has begun metering busy streets in Providencia and Bellavista, which is done by an official meter maid who waits on the street and times and charges drivers -- he or she will leave a white ticket on your windshield. On commercial streets where there is no meter maid, you'll find the cuidador, an unofficial, ragtag "caretaker" who will "watch" your car for you. You're expected to give them a tip of 100 to 300 pesos (20¢-60¢/10p-30p) when you leave your space. Cuidadores can be aggressive if you elect not to pay them.

Do not under any circumstances leave valuable items in your car if you park on the street; break-ins are frequent in all of Chile. Car theft is common, too, so always park your vehicle in a lot overnight.

On Foot

Santiago is not laid out on a perfect grid system; however, the neighborhoods most visitors stick to run along the length of the Mapocho River, making the river a good point of reference. Always carry a map with you. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are quieter days to explore neighborhoods such as downtown. Pedestrians should be alert at all times and never stand too close to sidewalk curbs because buses roar by dangerously close to sidewalks. Drivers are not always polite enough to give the right of way to pedestrians, so cross streets quickly and with your eyes wide open.