Nightlife

In the religious center of Galicia, there's much more to do after dark than pray. An estimated 200 bars and cafeterías are found on the Rúa do Franco and its neighbor, Rúa da Raiña. The pavement along those streets on weekend evenings at around 11pm is mobbed. You can have a lot of fun ducking into any of the establishments, but particularly convivial is Bar/Cafetería Dakar, Rúa do Franco 13 (tel. 98-157-81-92).

Beiro, Rúa da Raiña 3 (tel. 98-158-13-70), is one of the town's best wine bars, with a marvelous selection of vintages from throughout the country, especially wines from Galicia itself. Slices of Serrano ham, savory sausages, and homemade country terrines round out the food offerings, along with one of the best selections of Galician cheese in town; try the breast-shaped queso de tetilla, a local favorite.

One of the town's hot spots is Modus Vivendi, Piazza Feixoó 1 (tel. 98-157-61-09; www.pubmodusvivendi.net), where rock music blasts the night away in a cozy but too crowded interior. It's very psychedelic in decor and attracts local students and young visiting foreigners Sunday to Thursday 6:30pm to 3am, Friday and Saturday 6:30pm to 4:30am. Techno, house, pop, and rock music are played at the garishly decorated Retablo Café Concerto, Rúa Nova 13 (tel. 98-156-48-51; www.cafeconcertoretablo.com). It's open daily 3pm to 5am.