There's much more to do in the religious center of Galicia after dark than pray. There are an estimated 200 bars and cafeterías on the Rúa do Franco and its neighbor, Rúa da Raiña. The pavement along those streets on weekend evenings at around 11pm is mobbed. You can have a lot of fun ducking into any of the establishments, but particularly convivial is Bar/Cafetería Dakar, Rúa do Franco 13 (tel. 98-157-81-92).
Beiro, Rua da Raiña 3 (tel. 98-158-13-70), is one of the town's best wine bars, with a marvelous selection of vintages from throughout the country, especially wines from Galicia itself. Slices of Serrano ham, savory sausages, and homemade country terrines round out the food offerings, along with one of the best selections of Galician cheese in town; try the breast-shaped queso de tetilla, a local favorite. Other nighttime diversions are found at Conga 8, Rúa da Congo (tel. 98-158-34-07), which lures a crowd up to age 40 to its dance floor with the sounds of its salsa and merengue. Tunas (student musical troupes) appear here early in the morning hours. It's open daily 10pm to 5am. Techno, house, pop, and rock music are played at the garishly decorated Retablo Café Concerto, Rúa Nova 13 (tel. 98-156-48-51). It's open daily 5pm to 5am in summer, 10:30pm to 4am winter.
