Attractions

Of all the Loire cities, Saumur remains the most bourgeois; perhaps that's why Balzac used it for his classic characterization of a smug little town in Eugénie Grandet. Saumur is also famous as the birthplace of the couturière Coco Chanel.

The men of Saumur are among the best equestrians in the world. Founded in 1768, the city's riding school, Cadre Noir de Saumur, rue de l'Abbaye (tel. 02-41-53-50-60; www.cadre.noir.fr), is one of the grandest in Europe, rivaling Vienna's. The stables house some 350 horses. April to mid-October, tours (7.50€) begin at 9:30 to 11:30am and 2 to 4pm Tuesday to Sunday. Tours depart about every 20 minutes. Morning tours last about 1 1/2 hours and the afternoon tour lasts 1 hour. Some 48km (30 miles) of specialty tracks wind around the town -- to see a rider carry out a curvet is a thrill. The performances peak during the Carrousel de Saumur on the last two Saturdays and Sundays in July.

The area surrounding the town has become famous for its delicate sparkling wines. In the center of Saumur, you can wander the many aisles of La Maison du Vin, quai Lucien Gauthier (tel. 02-41-38-45-83), and choose from a large stock direct from the many surrounding vineyards.

An alternative is to travel east of Saumur to the village of St-Hilaire, where you'll find a host of vineyards. One of the better ones is Veuve Amiot, 21 rue Jean-Ackerman (tel. 02-41-83-14-14; www.veuveamiot.fr), where you can tour the wine cellars, taste different vintages, and buy bottles and gift boxes right in the showroom.

Saumur's chief attraction is its château, which takes 1 1/2 hours to tour.