Most visitors come to Sorrento for the cultural activities, but those in the know also take advantage of its many opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors.
You'll soon realize that the ruggedness that makes this stretch of coast so beautiful is a serious obstacle to your physical enjoyment of the shimmering sea: While rocky points and cliffs are, of course, part of the visual charm, swimming from them isn't easy. Most of the major hotels in town have worked this out by building their own private structures -- floating docks that are anchored to the rocky shore and equipped with umbrellas and lounge chairs -- usually connected by elevator to the top of the cliff and the hotel. The only small stretch of pebbly beach is at Marina Grande, but a busy harbor is not our idea of the perfect swimming spot. For real sand, you need to venture east out of town to the small Marinella Beach, or farther away to Vico Equense.
Hiring a boat (with or without a driver who can double as a guide) is high up on our list, as it allows for exploration of this rugged coast and its secluded beaches. Nautica Sic Sic, Marina Piccola (tel. 081-8072283 or 081-8785606; www.nauticasicsic.com; closed Nov-Apr), is a good place to rent boats; they go for 20€ ($28/£14) and up, depending on the size and type. The shop also organizes cruises. Another reputable company is Tony's Beach, Marina Grande (tel. 081-8785606). A nice half-hour boat excursion goes to the so-called Bagno della Regina Giovanna (Queen Giovanna's Bath) at Punta del Capo [ST] (although you can also reach the spot on foot, from a trail starting from the Calata Capo di Sorrento, off Via Capo). This is our favorite local swimming spot: A small pool of water enclosed by rocks, it was once the private harbor of an ancient Roman villa -- Villa of Pollio Felice -- the ruins of which you can visit at the top of the cliff. Another pleasant boat ride is the one to the Grotta delle Sirene (Grotto of the Sirens), which lies east of Marina Piccola and past Sant'Agnello. In the grotto, the water takes on surprising hues -- as if by the charm of magical sea creatures -- but it's really based on the ever-changing light.
Hiking is also high on our list, and the great number of trails, most of which are well maintained and marked, offer treks for people of all skill levels. We recommend using a good trail map; the best is Carta dei Sentieri published by CAI, the Club Alpino Italiano and for sale at libraries and some newsstands in town. It covers the Monti Lattari, Penisola Sorrentina, and Costiera Amalfitana, and costs 8€ ($11/£5.60). One of the most beautiful hikes is the one to Punta Sant'Elia, starting from Piazza Sant'Agnello in Sant'Agnello; the trail ends at a rocky point across the peninsula overlooking the little islands of LiGalli, along the Amalfi Coast in the Gulf of Salerno. To reach the trail, take Via Bonaventura Gargiulo up to Trasaella, at an altitude of 196m (643 ft.), and then continue toward Colli di Fontanelle at an altitude of 343m (1,125 ft.). From the center of this village and across Via Belvedere begins the trail to Punta Sant'Elia. It is also possible to hire a professional guide; we recommend Giovanni Visetti (tel. 081-8089613; www.giovis.com), an expert on this coast and its hinterlands, who organizes guided hikes of varying difficulty and cost.
Taking a Cooking Class -- If you like the local cuisine, you can sign up for a cooking class at the Sorrento Cooking School (Viale dei Pini 52; tel. 081-8783555; www.sorrentocookingschool.com). Classes last 3 hours and end with lunch or dinner, at which you eat what you prepared (or what the chef has, in the worst case), and drink local wine. Prices run about 120€ ($168/£84) per class.
