Attractions

Sorrento has ancient Greek, Etruscan, and Oscan beginnings, and was colonized by the Romans in the 1st century B.C., when it became a valued resort for the affluent. But the town's history has been checkered, to say the least; this jewel by the sea has been fought over many times. After the fall of the empire it was taken by the Goths, and then re-conquered by the Byzantines in A.D. 552. It remained part of the Byzantine Duchy of Naples until the 10th century. Having been conquered by the Prince of Salerno at the beginning of the 11th century, it succeeded in gaining its independence as a Duchy in 1067, and remained so until conquest by the Normans in 1133; it then passed into the hands of the Angevins. Saracen incursions and rivalry between the nearby towns of Vico Equense and Massa Lubrense made life difficult in Sorrento -- and there was worse to come. The town was completely destroyed by Barbary pirates on the nights of June 12 and 13, 1558. Still, the town was immediately rebuilt, this time with numerous defensive towers along the surrounding coast and a new set of walls.

We love strolling through the heart of Sorrento, where some medieval buildings are still intact. From the west side of Piazza Tasso, start off on Via Pietà; at number 14 you'll find Palazzo Veniero, with its facade of typical 13th-century decorations, similar to wood marquetry. At number 24 is ex-Palazzo Correale with its original 14th-century portal and two windows. A few steps away, we recommend a visit to the beautiful 15th-century Duomo, the Cathedral of San Filippo and San Giacomo (Corso Italia 1; tel. 081-8782248; daily 8am-noon and 4-8pm), with its striking Romanesque facade graced by a fresco over the portal. The stubby bell tower to the right is particularly interesting, graced by a majolica clock, and four antique columns at its base; only three of its five levels are original (the two top ones were later additions). Inside the Duomo, you can admire 14th- and 15th-century bas-reliefs and a wooden choir decorated with superb intarsia.

Sorrento is famous for the historical craft of marquetry and wood inlay. We suggest a stop at the Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea, Via San Nicola 28, 2 blocks from Corso Italia (tel. 081-8771942 or 081-8782177; 8€/$11/£5.60; Mon-Sat 10am-1pm; closed holidays), where you can admire an intriguing collection of 19th-century marquetry furniture in addition to the beautiful frescoes that decorate the 18th-century Palazzo Pomaranci Santomasi, which houses the museum.

Continuing on our stroll through Medieval Sorrento, you'll come to Piazzetta Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, off Via San Cesareo, where you can take in the elegant and very well-preserved 15th-century palazzo Sedile Dominova. Nearby is Sorrento's second-most important church, Basilica di Sant'Antonino, Piazza Sant'Antonino, off Via Luigi de Maio. Built in the 11th century over a preexisting oratory dedicated to Saint Anthony, it was later redone in the present baroque style, but the interior retains some 15th-century decorations.

Walking back toward the seafront promenade, you will come upon the 18th-century church of San Francesco, Piazza Francesco Saverio Gargiulo (daily 8am-1pm and 2-7pm); hidden inside is the splendid 14th-century cloister, famous for its concert series. Contact the tourist center for details. Across from the church is the entrance to Villa Comunale, which has a panoramic terrace and is a perfect spot for a quiet rest. From here, you can take the steep ramps descending to Marina Piccola, one of Sorrento's harbors. The town's other harbor is Marina Grande, which is lined with restaurants and seaside establishments.

Another interesting attraction is the Museo Correale, Via Correale (tel. 081-8781846; www.museocorreale.com; 8€/$11/£5.60; Wed-Mon 9am-2pm), once the home of the brothers Alfredo and Pompeo Correale, counts of Terranova -- an old aristocratic family of Sorrento -- who donated their villa and private collections to the public. The place gives a unique overview of decorative art from the 16th to the 19th centuries: Stocked with its original furnishings, it houses some excellent Flemish paintings, a collection of Italian and foreign porcelain from the reputedly best 17th- and 18th-century manufacturers, and a number of unusual clocks. The streets leading to this museum are part of the package: Via Correale, starting off Piazza Tasso, is one of the few streets that preserves the flavor of 19th-century Sorrento. We encourage you to continue beyond the museum until you reach the little town of Sant'Agnello, with its stately villas built in the past century or two, and many elegant hotels.

A Guided Tour -- If you have only 1 day to visit Sorrento, we highly recommend timing it to include a trip on the Sorrento Express (tel. 081-8780862; www.sorrentoexpress.it), a special train offered by the Circumvesuviana Railroad. You will travel on a restored carriage pulled by an original engine, all of which date from 1942 (the only new addition is air-conditioning). The trip is offered only on weekends (departing Naples at 9:06am on Sat and 10:06am on Sun) and includes refreshments on the train, a guided tour of Sorrento, and lunch in a local restaurant that offers traditional 18th-century dishes; the Saturday outing also includes a guided tour of Pompeii. The price for the round-trip is 57€ ($80/£40) on Saturday and 52€ ($73/£36) on Sunday for adults and 26€ ($36/£18) for children 9 and under. Reservations are required.