Attractions

Sorrento has ancient Greek, Etruscan, and Oscan beginnings, and was colonized by the Romans in the 1st century B.C., when it became a valued resort for the affluent. But the town's history is checkered, to say the least; this jewel by the sea has been fought over many times. After the fall of the empire, it was taken by the Goths, and then reconquered by the Byzantines in A.D. 552. It remained part of the Byzantine Duchy of Naples until the 10th century. Having been conquered by the Prince of Salerno at the beginning of the 11th century, it succeeded in gaining its independence as a Duchy in 1067, and remained so until conquest by the Normans in 1133; it then passed into the hands of the Angevins. Saracen incursions and rivalry between the nearby towns of Vico Equense and Massa Lubrense made life difficult in Sorrento -- and there was worse to come. The town was completely destroyed by Barbary pirates on the nights of June 12 and 13, 1558. Still, the town was immediately rebuilt, this time with numerous defensive towers along the surrounding coast and a new set of walls.

We love strolling through the heart of Sorrento, where some medieval buildings are still intact. From the west side of Piazza Tasso, start off on Via Pietà; at number 14 you'll find Palazzo Veniero, with its facade of typical 13th-century decorations, similar to wood marquetry. At number 24 is ex-Palazzo Correale with its original 14th-century portal and two windows. A few steps away, we recommend a visit to the beautiful 15th-century Duomo, the Cathedral of San Filippo and San Giacomo, Corso Italia 1 (tel. 081-8782248; daily 8am-noon and 4-8pm), with its striking Romanesque facade graced by a fresco over the portal. The stubby bell tower to the right is particularly interesting, graced by a majolica clock, and four antique columns at its base; only three of its five levels are original (the two top ones were later additions). Inside the Duomo, you can admire 14th- and 15th-century bas-reliefs and a wooden choir decorated with superb intarsia.

Sorrento is famous for its historical craft of marquetry and wood inlay. We suggest a stop at the Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea, Via San Nicola 28, 2 blocks from Corso Italia (tel. 081-8771942; admission 8€; Mon-Sat 10am-1pm and 3-6pm; closed national holidays), where you can admire an intriguing collection of 19th-century marquetry furniture in addition to the beautiful frescoes that decorate the 18th-century Palazzo Pomaranci Santomasi, which houses the museum.

Continuing on our stroll through medieval Sorrento, you'll come to Piazzetta Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, off Via San Cesareo, where you can take in the elegant and very well-preserved 15th-century palazzo Sedile Dominova. Nearby is Sorrento's second-most important church, Basilica di Sant'Antonino, Piazza Sant'Antonino, off Via Luigi de Maio. Built in the 11th century over a preexisting oratory dedicated to Saint Anthony, it was later redone in the present baroque style, but the interior retains some 15th-century decorations.

Walking back toward the seafront promenade, you will come upon the 18th-century church of San Francesco, Piazza Francesco Saverio Gargiulo, off Via San Francesco (daily 8am-1pm and 2-7pm); hidden inside is the splendid 14th-century cloister, famous for its concerts and art shows. Contact the tourist center for details. Across from the church is the entrance to Villa Comunale, which has a panoramic terrace and is a perfect spot for a quiet rest. From here, you can take the steep ramps descending to Marina Piccola, one of Sorrento's harbors. The town's other harbor is Marina Grande, which is lined with restaurants and seaside establishments.

Another interesting attraction is the Museo Correale di Terranova, Via Correale 48 (tel. 081-8781846; admission 6€; Wed-Mon 9:30am-1:30pm except national holidays; additional hours Sat 8:15-10:45pm July-Sept), once the home of the brothers Alfredo and Pompeo Correale, counts of Terranova -- an old aristocratic family of Sorrento -- who donated their villa and private collections to the public. The place gives a unique overview of decorative art from the 16th to the 19th centuries: Stocked with its original furnishings, it houses some excellent Flemish paintings, a collection of Italian and foreign porcelain from reputedly the best 17th- and 18th-century manufacturers, and a number of unusual clocks.

The streets leading to this museum are part of the package: Via Correale, starting off Piazza Tasso, is one of the few streets that preserves the flavor of 19th-century Sorrento. We encourage you to continue beyond the museum until you reach the little town of Sant'Agnello, with its stately villas built in the past century or two and many elegant hotels.

Taking a Cooking Class

If you want to replicate the local cuisine, sign up for a cooking class at the Sorrento Cooking School, Viale dei Pini 52 (tel. 081-8783555; www.sorrentocookingschool.com). Classes last 3 hours and end with lunch or dinner, at which you eat what you prepared (or what the chef has, in the worst case), and drink local wine. Prices run about 120€.