Water Island, 3/4 mile off the coast from the harbor at Charlotte Amalie, is the fourth-largest island in the U.S. Virgins, with 500 acres of land. It was once a part of a peninsula jutting out from St. Thomas, but a channel was cut through, allowing U.S. submarines to reach their base in a bay to the west. At palm-shaded Honeymoon Beach, you can swim, snorkel, sail, water-ski, or sunbathe, then order lunch or a drink from the beach bar (on Sat and Sun only). A ferry runs between Crown Bay Marina and Water Island several times a day for $5 one way, $9 round-trip (Crown Bay Marina, tel. 340/774-2255, is part of the St. Thomas submarine base). If you prefer a guided tour, check in with Water Island Adventures (tel. 340/714-2186; www.waterislandadventures.com). For $60 per person, including transportation and equipment, a trip to Water Island includes a cycling tour. In the 3 1/2 hours of the tour, beach time is allowed. Departures are from the dock at Havensight Mall or Crown Bay Marina.
In the same bay, and even closer to shore, is Hassel Island. This island is almost completely deserted, and is protected as part of a U.S. National Park, which prohibits most forms of development. There are no hotels or services of any kind here, and swimming is limited to narrow, rocky beaches. Even so, many visitors hire a boat to drop them off for an hour or two. A hike along the shoreline is a welcome relief from the cruise-ship congestion of Charlotte Amalie. Bring water and food if you plan to spend more than 3 hours. You can explore the ruins of early 19th-century English fortifications and mid-19th-century shopping and coal stations. A small ferry runs from the Crown Bay Marina on St. Thomas to Hassel, costing $5 to $10 round-trip. You can also book one of the Hassel Island Historic Tours (tel. 340/774-8674; http://islandtreasuresvi.com), costing $49 per person.
An even better option is a day trip to St. John, home of the world-famous Trunk Bay Beach. To get there, you can take one of many ferry services. Boats depart from Charlotte Amalie at Vendors Plaza or, more frequently, from Red Hook, and arrive in St. John's Cruz Bay. The one-way fare is $5 for adults from Red Hook and $10 for adults from Charlotte Amalie. Children 11 and under are $1. Near the access ramp of the pier in Cruz Bay, St. John, you'll find rows of independently operated taxis and their drivers, who will take you on a tour of the island. Independent-minded visitors can usually get a 4-hour guided tour for $60 (often shared with another passenger or two). Cruise-ship passengers are generally charged $50 for a 2-hour tour. A full day (7 hr.) is $75 (children 12 and under, $65). If you want to skip the tour of St. John and head right to the beach at Trunk Bay for the day, simply negotiate a fare with one of the taxi drivers at the pier. Be sure to arrange a time to be picked up at the end of the day, too. The cost of a one-way trip is usually between $5 to $10 per person, depending on how much the cabbie thinks he can get out of you. Note that $10 is the most expensive charge.