Begin your nighttime crawl through Toledo with a stop at Bar Ludeña, Plaza de la Magdalena 13, Corral de Don Diego 10 (tel. 92-522-33-84), where a loyal clientele comes for delectable tapas. Fixed-price menus range from 10€ to 17€ ($16-$27). Glasses of wine are sometimes passed through a small window to clients standing outside enjoying the view of the square. The bar is little more than a narrow corridor, serving raciones of tapas that are so generous they make little meals, especially when served with bread. The roasted red peppers in olive oil are quite tasty, along with the stuffed crabs and calamares (squid). Huge dishes of pickled cucumbers, onions, and olives are available. They also have a tiny dining room behind a curtain at the end of the bar serving inexpensive fare.
Despite the many tourists that throng its streets during the day, Toledo is quiet at night, with fewer dance clubs than you'd expect from a town of its size. If you want to hear some recorded music, head for Bar La Abadía, Plaza San Nicolás 3 (tel. 92-525-11-40), where local residents, many of them involved in the tourism industry, crowd elbow to elbow for pints of beer, glasses of wine, and access to the music of New York, Los Angeles, or wherever. It's also fun to drop in to the Cervecería Trébol, Calle Santa Fe 1 (tel. 92-521-37-02), to sample their wine, beer, excellent tapas, and bombas (stuffed potato bombs).
