Introduction to Valence

671km (417 miles) SE of Paris; 100km (62 miles) S of Lyon

Valence stands on the left bank of the Rhône between Lyon and Avignon. A former Roman colony, it later became the capital of the Duchy of Valentinois, set up by Louis XII in 1493 for Cesare Borgia. Today, Valence is a market town and distribution point for Rhône Valley fruit and vegetable producers. It's fitting that François Rabelais, who wrote of gargantuan appetites, spent time here as a student.

Visitors can climb the ruined château atop the white stone Mont Crussol. The ruins date from the 12th century. Valence is still the home of the Arsenal, one of France's oldest gunpowder factories.

The major sight is the Cathédrale St-Apollinaire, place de Ormeaux (tel. 04-75-43-13-32), consecrated by Urban II in 1095 and much restored since. Built in the Auvergnat-Romanesque style, the cathedral is on place des Clercs in the center of town. The choir contains the tomb of Pope Pius VI, who died a prisoner here in the 18th century. It's open daily from 8am to 7pm.

Adjoining the cathedral is the Musée Municipal, 4 place des Ormeaux (tel. 04-75-79-20-80), noted for its nearly 100 red-chalk drawings by Hubert Robert done in the 18th century. It's open June to September Tuesday to Saturday 10am to noon and 2 to 6:45pm, and Sunday 2 to 6:45pm; and October to May Tuesday to Sunday 2 to 5:45pm. Admission is 4.60€ adults, 2.30€ students, and free for children 15 and under.