Cantine Stevenson, Via Porto di Levante (tel. 090/9853247; Apr-Sept daily noon-3am), are the wine cellars that bear the name of James Stevenson, a Welshman who bought most of Vulcano in 1870 for the export of pumice and sulfur. He also sought to reform the island's agricultural output, and planted the first vineyards. His attempts were thwarted by the eruptions between 1888 and 1891, and after his death in 1903 his properties on the island were sold. In his former wine cellars, live music is featured nightly -- whether folk, Sicilian, pop, rock, jazz, or blues -- and more than 600 types of wine are sold. The cantina has a rather curious colonial-style decor, somewhat surreal with the volcano looming above. Near the Laghetti dei Fanghi mud baths, Il Castello (www.castellobar.interfree.it; no phone) is partly a popular open-air disco and partly an indoor club; don't even dream of showing up before 11pm though. A similar sort of thing is to be found at Manà Manà: An open-air nightclub inside the Centro Termale, it occasionally has live music.
If commercial house music and self-consciously designer-clad Italian teenagers are not your thing, the bars around the Porto Levante -- mostly of the neon-signed snack-bar variety -- are good for a casual drink. A good choice is Ritrovo Remigio (tel. 090/9852085; from early morning to 2am) with tables overlooking the port. Remigio also does excellent gelato (with a brioche, Sicilian style, it also makes a great breakfast) and pastries (do not miss the cannoli).
