Stone and wood—that’s the theme of Bebedeiro, where stone walls, a stone fireplace, hardwood floors, and rustic pine tables and stools for the diners set the tone. Now in the second generation of the same family, the restaurant specializes in local fish and shellfish, mostly cooked in a wood-burning oven. Some unusual plates include turnip greens with fried cracklings served with a San Simon cheese puff pastry, and a beautiful plate of asparagus spears draped with langostinos and served with a pair of garlic mousselines. Puff pastry is popular in this kitchen (the heat of the fire makes it very dramatic); a great seasonal fish dish pairs roasted sea bass with puff pastry filled with scallops.