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There's a tourist information office at the airport (tel. 0312/398-0348) as well as downtown at Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulv. 121, Maltepe (across from the Maltepe subway entrance; tel. 0312/231-5572). A third provincial tourism office is located at Anafartalar Cad. 67, Eski Adliye, Ulus (tel. 0312/310-0446).

If you're here for an extended stay, why not think about Turkish-language classes? Tömer offers courses at two locations: Ziya Gökalp Cad. 18, in the neighborhood of Kizilay (tel. 0312/434-3090), and Tunali Hilmi Cad. 97, in Kavaklidere (tel. 0312/426-2047), or check out their website at www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr.

City Layout

The city's major thoroughfare, suitably named Atatürk Bulvari, runs the length of Ankara from north to south, from the Equestrian Statue of Atatürk at Ulus Meydani all the way down to the Presidential Mansion in Çankaya, about 5km (3 miles) away.

The area around Ulus Meydani forms the oldest section of the city. From Ulus Meydani, located about a 5-minute walk uphill on Hisarparki Caddesi, east of the Atatürk statue, is where you will find the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. A detour from Hisarparki Caddesi onto Çikrikçilar Yokusu will take you through the market; eventually, all roads uphill lead to the old fortress, a living, breathing mix of modern Turkey and the Turkish heartland. The neighborhood directly opposite the main entrance to the fortress recently got a face-lift thanks to the support of one of Turkey's wealthiest businessmen and a great benefactor of Turkey's patrimony; here you'll find the newly preserved Çengelhan, a caravansary dating to 1522 and housing what else but the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, along with a number of newish cafes and teahouses.

To the north of the open-statued square are remnants of ancient Rome. Immediately west of the statue runs Cumhuriyet Bulvari, home to several museums and monuments to Republican Turkey. ASTI, Ankara's otogar (bus station), is located southwest of Ulus at the end of the metro line. The train station is more centrally located closer to Ulus at the southwestern end of Cumhuriyet Bulvari. Not surprisingly, the closer you get to the transport hub, the seedier it gets.

South of the starting point at the Atatürk statue along Atatürk Bulvari is the modern section of Kizilay, a bustling zone of modern shopping, outdoor cafes, and bookstores. On the south side of Gazi Kemal Bulvari is the neighborhood of Yenisehir, or "New City," the modern business heart of Ankara; here you'll find airline and bus-ticket offices, restaurants, and a few recommendable three- and four-star hotels.

Still farther south on Atatürk Bulvari is Kavaklidere, an old vineyard now home to the Sheraton, Hilton, residential housing, and easy living. The cluster of neighborhoods that includes Kavaklidere, Çankaya, and Gaziosmanpasa is where you'll find most of the foreign embassies, and a robust infrastructure of modern, middle-class, and business-level shopping, accommodations, and dining.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.