advertisement

This looks like the sort of place Lord Byron might have enjoyed: a small cafe with louche locals lounging over their coffee in a ramshackle building near the entrance to the Ancient Agora. The walls have old black and white photographs, some tobacco smoke-stained oil paintings, and lots of gleaming copper. I like the mezedes (appetizers), including Cheese Abyssinia (feta scrambled with spices and garlic), mussels-and-rice pilaf, and the spicy keftedes (meatballs). It's nearly impossible to get out of here having only a coffee. Prices are reasonable (cash only), but it's not hard to try a bit of this and then a bit of that and run up more of a tab than intended. If you don't get lost the first time you find this hideaway, congratulations! If you do get lost, enjoy the maze of streets and alleys you will explore en route.