If there is a better seafood kitchen in Athens, I have not found it. The restaurant, which won a Michelin star in 2002, could be called elegant and unfussy, which also describes the cuisine here. There are no bizarre combinations of ingredients, there is no foam—just excellent fresh everything. As a bonus, there's an Acropolis view from the rooftop terrace, which is open in summer. The fish could not be fresher, and what's on the plate was probably in the sea no more than a day earlier. That means that the menu varies with what's caught, but usually features crayfish, sea bass, monkfish, and lobster. If you've never had fish soup, squid, or octopus, you can't find it done better than here. There's also usually an excellent value €50 chef's recommended five-course special that changes frequently. For die-hard meat lovers, there are usually some choice cuts, sometimes including that increasingly rare delicacy, sweetbreads. Otherwise, there are sometimes sausages made of shrimp. Alas, the service can often be described as ranging from indifferent to brusque.
80 Piraeos. From the Metro station, head left on Ermou and then right on Piraeos. Varoulko is next to the Eridanus Hotel.
Our Rating Neighborhood Around town Hours Mon–Sat 8pm–midnight Transportation Metro: Theseio Phone 210/522-8400 Prices Fish priced by the kilo. Dinner for two from about €150 Cuisine Type Seafood Web site Varoulko
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