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Veuve Clicquot bottles lined up along the window sills hint at the good times that have gone on before (as well as the impressive wine list). Service here is impeccable and it’s long been a favorite with the lunching business crowd, thanks to its "Express Lunch". But if you want to test what the kitchen really can do, head here for dinner. Every plate will have at least six ingredients on it then, often quite esoteric ones (tempura crayfish, chestnut cassoulet, crumbled celeriac, veal pot au feu, to give a few examples) but somehow the chef manages to meld these disparate tastes into a rich, textured but holistic meal.