Things To Do in Ayios Nikolaos

The focal point in town is the small pool, formally called Lake Voulismeni, just inside the harbor. You can sit at its edge while enjoying a meal or a drink. Inevitably, it has given rise to all sorts of tales -- that it's bottomless (it's known to be about 65m/213 ft. deep); that it's connected to Santorini, the island about 104km (65 miles) to the north; and that it was the "bath of Athena." Originally it was a freshwater pool, probably fed by a subterranean river that drained water from the mountains inland. A 20th-century channel now mixes the fresh water with sea water.

Definitely make time to visit Ceramica, 28 Paleologou (tel. 28410/24-075). You will see many reproductions of ancient Greek vases and frescoes for sale throughout Greece, but seldom will you have a chance to visit the workshop of one of the masters of this art, Nikolaos Gabriel. His authentic and vivid vases range from 25€ to 300€. He also carries a line of fine jewelry, made by others to his designs. Across the street, at no. 1A, Xeiropoito sells handmade rugs. Pegasus, 5 Sfakianakis, on the corner of Koundourou, the main street up from the harbor (tel. 28410/24-347), offers a selection of jewelry, knives, icons, and trinkets -- some old, some not. You'll have to trust the owner to tell you which is which. For something a bit different in women's clothing, step into Vendemma, 11 Koundourou.

For something truly Greek, what could be better than an icon -- a religious or historic painting on a wooden plaque? The tradition is kept alive in Elounda at the studio/store Petrakis Workshop for Icons, 22 A. Papendreou, on the left as you come down the incline from Ayios Nikolaos, just before the town square (tel. 28410/41-669). Georgia and Ioannis Petrakis work seriously at maintaining this art. Orthodox churches in North America as well as in Greece buy icons from them. Stop by and watch the artists at their painstaking work -- you don't have to be Orthodox to admire or own one. The store also carries local artisans' jewelry, blown glass, and ceramics.