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Located under the arches on elegant Isabel II, 7 Portes has the quintessential look of a grand Old World restaurant. Its waitstaff wears either long black aprons or short white jackets and hustles from table to table with solicitous service. Many tourists take exception to the relative formality of the place, but that's part of its charm. To enjoy the restaurant, skip the paella. They make a different one each day and some can be good, but it's not their strong suit. One of the most famous dishes is the chicken roasted with mushrooms and Moscatel wine—sort of a Catalan coq au vin. Light eaters and bargain hunters will be glad to know that the menu encourages sharing larger dishes like the Dover sole, which typically weighs in at more than 2 pounds, or the large steamed or grilled medleys of seafood. The smaller fried fish plate is also very good—all the fish are pan-fried in butter. The restaurant’s name means “Seven Doors,” and it really does have seven doors.