Owner Moncho Neira hails from Galicia and holds the opinion (shared by much of Spain) that Galicians know more about fish than anyone. Neira sources his fish from the auctions on the Catalan and Galician coasts and presents them in a glamorous, old-world fine-dining setting where waiters wear white jackets and diners are expected to dress accordingly. Begin with a selection of clams and oysters from the raw bar, or take Neira’s advice and start with his spider crab pie. Because he has access to the Galician catch, he always has live lobsters, “Norway lobster” (scampi), two or three species of crab, clams, mussels, and percebes (goose barnacles) in enormous tanks at the restaurant entrance. Diners who prefer meat can choose from a few steaks, some veal dishes, and traditional Galician stewed pork with turnips. The wine list is as Galician as many of the fish, with several bracing albariño whites from the Rias Baixas along with a nice selection of Catalan cavas.