Isidre Gironés and his wife Montserrat have been serving market cuisine with a seafood emphasis at this El Raval restaurant since 1970. Although the neighborhood was fairly rough until recently, gastronomes have always sought them out on a hidden-away street for their low-key excellence and hard-to-find old-fashioned dishes like fried salt cod with white beans. You can also order contemporary preparations like tartare of bream and cigalas (the local saltwater crawfish) with parsley oil, or roast kid with baby onions. In summer and early fall, a super starter is gazpacho with assorted seafood. Souvenirs from celebrity guests adorn the walls, including Federico Fellini, Giuletta Masina, Salvador Dalí and Woody Allen (and the rumor of a former monarch). The owner is known to have actually turned down a Michelin star rating, for reasons known only to him.