Isidre Gironés and his wife Montserrat have been serving market cuisine with a seafood emphasis at this El Raval restaurant since 1970. Although the neighborhood was fairly rough until recently, gastronomes have always sought them out for hard-to-find old-fashioned dishes like fried salt cod with white beans. You can also order contemporary preparations like tartare of bream and cigalas (the local saltwater crawfish) with parsley oil, or roast kid with baby onions. In summer and early fall, the best available starter is gazpacho with assorted seafood.