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The first seafront fish shack to put up a masonry building, Can Costa has been around since the 1920s when this stretch of Barceloneta was a much saltier locale. With two indoor dining rooms (a warehouse blocks the harbor view anyway), Can Costa seats a lot of diners. This can be a drawback if you mind waiting while your food is cooked, but the seafood is fresh and the kitchen cooks it as simply as possible. The fried baby squid are some of the best in Barceloneta as they’re so quickly sautéed that they remain tender. The “fideuà de peix,” a dish baked in a shallow paella pan with noodles instead of rice, is a house specialty. Can Costa also makes a black version flavored and colored with squid ink and featuring more calamari than shellfish.