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Proprietor Josep Maria Garcia adheres to the traditional plates of La Barceloneta. That could mean starting with a briny bowl of tiny sweet clams or cabbage hearts stuffed with tuna. Some vanishing dishes make their last stand here, like the fried cod and onions with sweet currants that hint at its North African roots. And then there’s the zarzuela, the most expensive dish on the menu because it is an encyclopedia of the Barceloneta catch, jammed with everything including whiting, shrimp, cigalas, bream, mackerel, clams, mussels, and even lobster.