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Chef-owner Carles Abellan re-invents classic Catalan dishes through the lens of world cuisine. An elBulli alumnus, he experiments with techniques and flavors, an the results are inevitably harmonious. The rabbit paella offers rabbit cooked on a spit. He perfumes fresh salmon with vanilla and serves it with yogurt cheese instead of crème fraîche. His roast suckling pig is done Hanoi-style, gorgeously glazed and scented with astringent herbs. This is vibrant, earthy food—not a speck of foam in sight. Abellan also makes one of the great Catalan classics, arròç de pato (duck paella) with dabs of foie gras along with the confit. The dining room is out of the way, up the street from the Museu de Xocolata at the east end of La Ribera. In addition to a la carte service, Abellan offers two tasting menus (7 or 12 courses) with tapas-sized portions.