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Javier Gorría continues where his father, the famous Basque chef Fermin Gorría, left off: presenting the best cooking from the mountains of Navarre and the Basque coast. In the grand Basque tradition, many of the raw materials are presented on display tables that look like altars, and diners are invited to select their fish and cuts of meat from the refrigerated case. The wood-fired grill and oven are the keys to the cooking, and though Gorría is not, strictly speaking, a Basque asador, some of the greatest dishes are the roasted Roncal valley lamb, redolent of mountain herbs, and the slowly braised suckling pig. The kitchen is equally adept with fish, including the all-time classic cod a pil-pil—a sauce where the cook's technique must be perfect to emulsify the olive oil and the juices of the fish. The wine list is a delightful mix of classic Riojas, a number of bright txakolís from the Basque coast, and the rich garnatxas and cabernet sauvignons from Navarre.