Tony Magaña Huertas is the boss behind this unexpected little restaurant in the back of Barcelona’s covered food market, La Boqueria, and he loves good, simple food. Fancier table settings are available upstairs but most diners opt for the downstairs bar. There are also a few tables by the back door so you can watch the market workers coming and going. The food is “market cuisine” in the most direct sense of the term (it’s at the market), but preparations show real imagination. Fresh cod, for example, might be roasted with quince and served with a dab of aioli and wilted spinach. A grilled steak could come with a confit of piquillo peppers. Fixed price menus at lunch and dinner are real bargains.