It is a rite of passage for tourists to dine at “The Snails,” where the Bofarull family has been welcoming hungry travelers since 1835. You may smell the whole chickens roasting over a spit in an open window before you arrive. The snails, for which the restaurant was renamed in the mid–20th century, are good and garlicky, but most diners come for the comfort food: chicken and ham croquettes, roast chicken, roast suckling pig, and the pricey lobster paella. The menu has basically remained unchanged since Los Caracoles was featured in the inaugural edition of Spain on $5 a Day. Honest food without subtext never goes out of style.