advertisement

Although a new generation is in charge, this venerable family restaurant retains its terrific collection of Modernista graphic art, its 18th-century tiles and wrought iron, and its commitment to the dark and savory side of traditional Catalan cookery. The kitchen makes its own pâtés and terrines—the anchovy-black olive terrine (garum) is especially good—and offers a wide array of traditional sausages and cured meats, including the air-dried beef usually only found in mountainous western Catalunya. When it’s available, ask for the sturgeon carpaccio with cava vinaigrette as a starter. (Sturgeon cooked in cider is also usually on the menu as a main dish.) Duck is a staple here; one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is duck three ways (gizzards, liver, and thighs). The short and powerful wine list is strong on Priorat, and for dessert you can’t go wrong with any of the Catalan cheeses.