If you’re not planning a gastronomic pilgrimage to Girona to eat at El Celler de Can Roca, you might want to book a dinner here. Chef de cuisine Felip Llufriu executes Joan Roca’s inspired dishes perfectly, and the design-centric decadence of Hotel Omm pumps the otherworldliness up a notch. You might start with cigalas (saltwater crayfish) with curry, rose petals, and licorice—a brilliant combination of flavors to give a fairly bland crustacean some real taste. The kitchen also does a bogavente (Atlantic lobster) version of the dish with a licorice curry sauce. Kid is slowly braised and finished with a rosemary-honey glaze and served on a “cloud” of goat’s milk foam. Jordi Roca designs the desserts, which must be ordered at the start of the meal. His classic “Trip to Havana” features rum sponge cake, lime soup, peppermint granita, and a frozen ice cream cigar with a spice ash. Roca Moo now boasts its own Michelin star (the Roca brothers’ establishment in Girona has three) and has become more exclusive, trimming back the size of the dining room to expand the adjacent Roca Bar, where the same kitchen serves innovative tapas.
- Frommer's Staff