A prominent British journalist tells the story of ordering a fried breakfast in Belfast, sometime in the 1970s. “No sausage,” he asked the waitress. When his food arrived, there were sausages on the plate. He sent it back, asking again for no sausage. But back it came, with sausages still there. “But I said no sausages,” he complained. “Chef says sausage is compulsory,” came the taciturn reply. These days the Belfast dining scene is, happily, much more cosmopolitan. The number of top restaurants in the city seems to grow every year, from funky gastropubs to chic fine dining.

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