Contemporary, seasonal, well-balanced flavors form the small but sumptuous menus at this Michelin-starred restaurant. The tasting menus change constantly, with local and seasonal availability a constant priority, but expect dishes such as a piquant tomato, onion, and black-garlic galette; creamy bisque made with salsify and ink; or perhaps salted halibut with buttermilk and dill. A full vegetarian menu is always available. Paired wines are just £30 extra. The service strikes precisely the right balance between professionalism and friendliness—the waitstaff really know their stuff, without ever making you feel like you need to sit up straighter—and the modern dining room provides a sophisticated backdrop. Be sure to make reservations. If, however, you can’t quite stretch to dinner here, you can sample the restaurant''s excellent wine list in the entirely informal Ox Cave (the French, wine-filled kind), the adjacent wine bar, while enjoying cheese, nibbles and light bites.